Zinfandel

2001 De Loach Estate Bottled Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($20). This full-bodied, intensely flavorful red wine shows the kind of character that only comes from old vines. It offers vivid blackberry, blueberry and black-pepper flavors, as well as a creamy texture on the palate. The abundant fruit artfully conceals the potent 15 percent alcohol level. This is a wine to enjoy on a cold night along with a hearty stew or pasta dish.

2000 Murphy-Goode Liar's Dice Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($19.50). The price is a bit daunting, but it's no lie that this is a top-notch red zinfandel. The flavors are concentrated and intense but not ponderous. The texture is smooth and inviting, with no burn despite the 14.5 percent alcohol. The enticing flavors of blackberry, blueberry, herbs and chocolate are followed by refreshing acidity in the finish. Serve with steak, lamb, game or pasta.

2000 Santa Barbara Winery ZCS ($13). This imaginative red blend of zinfandel, carignane and sangiovese really rocks. It's an exceptionally lively, medium-bodied wine with the distinctive wild berry and spice flavors of grapes from old vines. There are many fine "field-blend" red wines in California, but this one is truly a cut above. Its fruit and earthy aromas just jump out of the glass, and its lively acidity makes it a promising companion to grilled red meat or pasta in a tomato sauce.

Rosenblum Cellars California Zinfandel, Vintners Cuvee XXIII ($16). Zinfandel rules for the second straight week. It's a good rut to be in when you're tasting wines like this nonvintage red from one of California's most reliable zin-masters. It's a lush, deep, meaty wine with plenty of blackberry, black currant, licorice, coffee and spicy oak flavors. Serve with just about any red-meat dish, pizza or pasta with tomato sauce.

1999 De Loach California Zinfandel ($12). Good zinfandels have been edging up in price toward $20, so it's encouraging to find such high quality at this price. Often a generic California designation is a sign of mediocre quality, but not in this case. This medium- to full-bodied red offers vibrant berry fruit, a hint of black pepper and an appealing smoothness. It's not the biggest or most complex zinfandel, but it's entirely satisfying and an excellent value. Serve with a wide variety of red meat, roast fowl and pasta dishes.

1999 Francis Coppola "Diamond Series" Zinfandel ($14). This medium-bodied, ready-to-drink California red wine isn't a Sonoma-style blockbuster but a fruity, soft-textured zin with plenty of black currant and black cherry fruit. It's a zinfandel that should appeal to devotees of merlot, though this wine has more spiciness. This versatile red would go well with a wide range of red meat and pasta dishes.

1999 Beaulieu Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($14.29). This medium- to full-bodied wine is an elegant Napa-style zinfandel, not a Sonoma-style blockbuster. It offers plenty of vibrant, intense black raspberry fruit with hints of chocolate and blueberry and a creamy, smooth texture. It should go wonderfully with pizza, pasta and most red meats.

1999 Ravenswood Zinfandel, Vintners Blend ($12). Typically one of the best values in zinfandel, Ravenswood's popular Vintners Blend was a little off-form in the difficult 1998 vintage. But this superb winery has bounced back with maybe its best versions yet. The medium- to full-bodied 1999 Vintners Blend offers exceptional, intense blackberry fruit with hints of blueberry and spices. It compares well with many a $20 zinfandel and would be superb company for pizza, pasta, grilled steaks, lamb or stews.