Zinfandel

1995 Ridge Sonoma Station Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($19).This delicious, concentrated, many-layered zinfandel is a bit expensive, but it more than justifies its price tag with its gripping black raspberry and black pepper flavors. The wine comes from the old Lytton Springs Winery property, which Ridge bought, and should not be confused with Ridge's Lytton Springs bottling of zinfandel.Pub Date: 5/11/97@

1997 Zingaro Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($14). Hold on to your hats -- this is one exceptional zinfandel at a very attractive price. It's a wonderful example of a Mendocino-style zin -- lots of spiciness, intense black raspberry fruit and maybe even a touch of mesquite. If you're used to the blockbuster Sonoma style of zinfandel, you'll find this wine surprisingly elegant. It's also complex, intensely flavorful and a wonderful companion to serve with a gourmet-style pizza or a thick steak.

1998 Ravenswood Vintners Blend Zinfandel ($14.59). This lush, soft, intense red wine has edged up in price but still represents one of the better zinfandel values on the market. It offers vibrant flavors of blackberry, herbs, black olives and smoked meat. If memory serves me, it's a significant improvement on Ravenswood's 1997, which was no slouch itself. Give this winery credit: There are few bets in life as solid as buying a Ravenswood zinfandel. Serve it with pizza, steak or pasta.

1999 Ravenswood Zinfandel, Vintners Blend ($12). Typically one of the best values in zinfandel, Ravenswood's popular Vintners Blend was a little off-form in the difficult 1998 vintage. But this superb winery has bounced back with maybe its best versions yet. The medium- to full-bodied 1999 Vintners Blend offers exceptional, intense blackberry fruit with hints of blueberry and spices. It compares well with many a $20 zinfandel and would be superb company for pizza, pasta, grilled steaks, lamb or stews.

1999 Beaulieu Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($14.29). This medium- to full-bodied wine is an elegant Napa-style zinfandel, not a Sonoma-style blockbuster. It offers plenty of vibrant, intense black raspberry fruit with hints of chocolate and blueberry and a creamy, smooth texture. It should go wonderfully with pizza, pasta and most red meats.

1996 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel ($15).This wild, rustic zinfandel is just packed with blackberry and herb flavors. It's a full-bodied, take-no-prisoners zin that deserves to be drunk before the weather becomes too warm; it's hard to appreciate it then.Pub Date: 5/13/98

1994 Talus Zinfandel ($8)It's tough to find a very good red zinfandel for under $10 anymore, but this chunky wine with an abundance of chocolate and herbs is a thoroughly enjoyable if not particularly nuanced young wine. It's just perfect for serving with pizza or simple grilled foods.Pub Date: 5/22/96@

2002 Bonny Doon "Cardinal Zin," Beastly Old Vines California Zinfandel ($20). This brash, medium-bodied zinfandel just screams with flavors of wild berries, blueberry, chocolate, black pepper and spices. A departure from the blockbuster Sonoma County style of zinfandel, it makes an impression with its acidity and freshness. Not overly alcoholic, it's well-suited for serving with pasta dishes. Extra points for being topped with a modern, reliable, fashionable screw top, which sophisticates consider superior to obsolete cork technology.

1999 Murphy-Goode "Liar's Dice" Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($19). This full-bodied, rich, creamy-textured zinfandel is a fine example of why Sonoma County is to zinfandel what the Napa Valley is to cabernet sauvignon. It displays lush flavors of blackberry, herbs and smoked meat and a long, satisfying finish. You can serve this wine with hearty pasta dishes, risotto, red meat or pizza. Murphy-Goode continues to be one of California's finest performers in its price class. While its wines aren't cheap, they offer consistent value.