Zinfandel

February is a time of year for hearty, warming foods - stews, roasts, game and pasta dishes. That also makes it a time for zinfandel, California's own red wine. Its full-bodied, intense flavors complement such foods, and the high alcohol levels of the ripest zinfandels are an asset in winter that they wouldn't be in July. Wine enthusiasts have an especially strong motivation for sampling some zinfandels this month because the vintage dominating retail shelves, 2001, is one of the best of the past decade.

SACRAMENTO -- Delicato Vineyards of Manteca, Calif., the nation's 10th-largest winery, has agreed to pay a $1 million fine after admitting that it altered records to support a massive fraud in connection with its 1988 white zinfandel production.Anthony Indelicato, 62, president of the family-owned winery, also agreed to plead guilty to his part in the fraud, to divest himself of hisone-sixth ownership in the company, to resign as company president and to play no meaningful role in the company's affairs for five years.

C To: The CommissionerFrom: Michael DresserRe: Geriatric zinfandelBoss, we've finally got the evidence to bust the old Zinfandel gang.I'm swearing out a warrant today against "Red" Zinfandel for Impersonating a Long-Aging Wine. It's a Class A wine felony, so we should be able to put a cork in him and his cronies for good.Boss, this was one of the toughest mysteries I've seen on the wine beat. It still could be a difficult case to present to a jury, especially because the defendant has loads of charm and a prominent defense team.

Zinfandel and the traditional Thanksgiving turkey dinner are one of those matches that are hard to understand but that work anyway. You think turkey, white meat, maybe a chardonnay. But it's wrong. There's a lot more to turkey than the breast, and a lot more to the feast than the turkey. It takes a big wine to hold its own with the gravy and the green beans and the stuffing and the yams, which seem to come around to you three times even though you can't stand yams. The zinfandel does nothing better than produce big red wines fit for a feast.

To most people who have a serious interest in California wine, the names of the Napa Valley and Sonoma County are more than just familiar. They are almost synonymous with Wine Country.But if you have a little more space in your wine memory banks, you might just want to save a little of it for Contra Costa County, Amador County and Paso Robles.Like Sonoma and Napa, these three far-flung regions are important growing regions for zinfandel -- that most American of the world's great red wines.

From: California Price: $14 Serve with: Pasta dishes, grilled meat This lush, ripe blend of zinfandel, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot is all about decadent pleasure. It's one of those smooth red wines that is so fruity it gives the impression of sweetness without being sweet. There's a lot of berry action - black, blue and wild - and hints of chocolate and coffee. There's no point in sitting on it. Drink now.  

1997 Zingaro Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($14). Hold on to your hats -- this is one exceptional zinfandel at a very attractive price. It's a wonderful example of a Mendocino-style zin -- lots of spiciness, intense black raspberry fruit and maybe even a touch of mesquite. If you're used to the blockbuster Sonoma style of zinfandel, you'll find this wine surprisingly elegant. It's also complex, intensely flavorful and a wonderful companion to serve with a gourmet-style pizza or a thick steak.

1996 Ravenswood Vintner's Blend Zinfandel ($11)Ravenswood has few rivals in its mastery of zinfandel, and it shows in this full-bodied California red wine. It offers generous blackberry and black-pepper flavors, and a silky texture that is unusual in a big, inexpensive red wine. This is a classic pizza wine.Pub Date: 4/12/98@

This robust, smooth zinfandel does a pretty good imitation of a fine vintage port, minus the sweetness. It's packed with flavors of blueberry, chocolate, herbs and coffee. Its style is more reminiscent of a big-shouldered Sonoma County zinfandel than the typical Napa zin, but who's complaining? It's simply a delicious red. Michael Dresser 2006 Napa Cellars Zinfandel From: Napa Valley, Calif. Price: $22 Serve with: Pasta, pizza, winter stews

2001 Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Zinfandel, Mead Ranch Vineyard, Napa Valley ($25). Yes, it's a bit pricey, but this is a very smooth, deep, lush zinfandel that's just packed with blackberry, blueberry and black-pepper flavors. This elegant zinfandel, very much in the Napa style, emphasizes elegance over power, and the alcohol is well-hidden behind the fruit. Serve with red meat, pasta or roast poultry dishes. - Michael Dresser