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FEATURES
By Michael Dresser | July 8, 1998
1997 Principessa Gavia Gavi, Villa Banfi ($12).Gavi, the leading white wine of Italy's Piedmont region, is usually a rather dull, neutral wine. This dry wine is a spectacular exception. It displays excellent freshness, body and flavors of pear, lemon, herbs, minerals and slate. Amazingly, it had the guts to stand up quite nicely to pasta in a tomato sauce. It's good to see a major Italian producer such as Banfi taking white wine seriously. Drink this fresh, lively wine over the next six months.
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FEATURES
By Michael Dresser | July 15, 1998
1997 Georges Duboeuf Viognier, Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche ($8).Georges Duboeuf, the Beaujolais producer extraordinaire, continues his successful foray into the south of France with this delicious dry white wine. Viognier is the classic white-wine grape of the northern Rhone, and this wine does a convincing imitation of a $35 Condrieu at a bargain price. It displays the typical viognier flavors of peach, spices, melon, orange and nuts. Like all viogniers, it should be consumed young - preferably before the end of this year.
ENTERTAINMENT
By Michael Dresser, The Baltimore Sun | November 2, 2012
Argentine torrontes is one of the great white wine values in the world today, and this is a splendid example at an attractive price. It's the tiniest bit off fully dry, and it offers clean, fresh flavors of citrus peel, lime, pear and minerals. There's just enough sugar to give it a rounded feel, not enough to make it sweet. And the bottle comes with a lesson in Argentine history. Viva la Revolucion! From: Mendoza, Argentine Price: $12 Serve with: Light-fleshed fish, shellfish
ENTERTAINMENT
By Michael Dresser, The Baltimore Sun | November 21, 2012
Even after some 30 years of reviewing wines, there's something new to learn. Falanghina, a white wine varietal I had not encountered before, comes from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius and dates to ancient times. This version is exceptionally complex and elegant, dry almost to the point of being severe. There are hints of nuts, apple, pear and orange zest — along with a delicate hint of pine resin. Among Italian whites, it's a standout. From: Taburno, Campania, Italy Price: $20 Serve with: Salmon, swordfish
ENTERTAINMENT
February 2, 2012
From: Vinos de Madrid, Spain Price: $12 Serve with: Grilled seafood, Asian cuisine Even after more than 25 years of reviewing wines, there are new discoveries to be made. Malvar is a little-known white wine grape indigenous to Spain. This example is quite distinctive, with a piercing but refreshing acidity balanced by generous flavors for orange, grapefruit, lime and spices. With no oak influence, it's a real wake-up call for a tired palate and an excellent value in a dry white.
ENTERTAINMENT
January 17, 2012
From: Valle Central, Chile Price: $10 Serve with: Salmon, ham, poultry I'm not a big fan of Chilean chardonnays, most of which seem heavy and clunky, but this one I found very appealing — especially at this price. It combines the standard flavors of New World chardonnay — apple, lemon and vanilla — but does so with admirable balance and harmony. It's not a great dry white wine, but it is a great value. — Michael Dresser
NEWS
By Michael Dresser | October 20, 2004
2004 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley ($10). This highly regarded Chilean winery wasted no time getting this white wine to market - a move that pays off in freshness and liveliness. The wine offers vibrant pear, citrus, herb and mineral flavors that would be well-matched with spicy seafood dishes. There's no need to worry about cork taint because it comes with a screw top.
NEWS
By [Michael Dresser] | February 13, 2008
2007 Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay From: Marlborough, New Zealand Price: $17 Serve with: Seafood, Asian cuisine Oak-free chardonnay is a white wine that is usually better in concept than execution because winemakers tend to reserve their best chardonnay grapes for fermentation in barrels. This fine producer apparently has gone oak-free with the good stuff. The wine is marvelously complex and fruity, with crisp flavors of pear, apple and citrus fruit, spices and butterscotch. Oak?
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