Sushi

Food: ** (2 stars) Service: **3 (3 stars) Atmosphere: **1/2 (2 1/2 stars) So you think nothing much changes in Baltimore? Fifteen years ago probably the busiest sushi bar in the city was located in a funky Fells Point bar called John Steven Ltd., named after the owner's son's teddy bear. The bar served "American sushi" - that is, rolls made with cooked seafood, which became its signature dish. Nowadays the Baltimore area probably has as many Japanese restaurants as steak houses. Even if you don't know the difference between sushi and sashimi, your kid does.

Towson is the closest thing the Baltimore area has to a Little Japan, what with all the sushi places and Japanese restaurants that have opened up there in the last few years. Add one more to the list: the new Fuji, which is a low-key, family-run neighborhood version of the popular hibachi grill restaurants. I, for one, found it restful. Most of these slice-and-dice-while-you-watch Japanese steakhouses are high energy -- and pricey. At Fuji, you get the same show on a smaller scale and much the same food; but it's quieter, cozier and less expensive.

Canton Square is known for a lot of things: fun nights out, high-energy bars, easy access to Miller Lite. What's not on that list? Calming surroundings and top-notch Asian food. Shiso Tavern, which opened in June in the space formerly occupied by Cosmopolitan and, most recently, by Te Amo, just might change that. Owners Mel Carter and Brett Lockard understand what it takes to create a Canton-area hot spot: They're also the team behind Blue Hill Tavern and Tavern on the Square.

For those folks in northern Baltimore County who enjoy Japanese food but are averse, because of geography or inclination, to head into Baltimore City, the good news is that several Japanese restaurants have opened up in their area in recent years. And San Sushi in Cockeysville may well have started the trend. They do things differently at San Sushi -- and the difference seems to be working for them. A few months ago, San Sushi took over the adjacent store in its small strip center and more than doubled in size.

Baffled by the names of some Japanese foods? Here's a primer (find them in specialty shops or produce markets): * Sushi nori is a vegetable, made from nori seaweed that has been dried and pressed into paper-thin sheets. * Wasabi, a fiery-tasting condiment similar to horseradish, is available in powdered or paste form. * Daikon is a mild-tasting, giant white radish. -- Cole's Cooking A to Z

A parting shotAT a staff party for a Severna Park camera shop, one of the younger staff members, who had just finished his last week before heading off in search of other opportunities, offered this vignette on a regular -- and favorite -- customer he called "Mr. Sarcophagus."The Kodak processing lab, it seems, had lost the man's film, and to help track it down the clerk asked what was on the roll."John Paul Jones' sarcophagus," came the reply."What's a sarcophillus?," the clerk asked.Informed of the what, and how to pronounce it, the clerk defensively explained, "Well, I grew up in the Carter administration."

John Houser III reviews Nanami Cafe in Fells Point for Friday's Live section. Yes, this is where Kawasaki was. It looks all new and shiny. This is the Ann Street space where Kawasaki used to be. With a great view of the water, Nanami makes for a romantic destination for (sushi) lovers, John decides. Here's a link to his review.

The buzz in restaurant circles these days is that Lenny an Gail Kaplan have bought -- or are going to buy -- the Harvey House, the Charles Street institution that closed its doors two weeks ago.Barry Baumel, one of the owners, says the restaurant has been bought by a local group but can't divulge its identity because of the terms of the sales contract. Based on the number of workmen there lately, the restaurant looks as if it will be given a new look. Settlement isn't until July 1, says Mr. Baumel, so we'll have to wait and see.For his part, Mr. Kaplan says, "We have not bought it . . . It's ## premature to even discuss it."

With little or no fanfare, Lynn Schaare has opened Lynn's, a full-service restaurant, where her bistro, Cup of Gold Cafe, used to be (554 E. Fort Ave.). Paul Lopez, Lynn's executive chef, has been trained in French techniques; but the emphasis is on Maryland ingredients. So, for instance, you can get Maryland-style cioppino and sauteed rockfish as well as rack of lamb with provencale vegetable fricassee and breast of duck au poivre. Entrees are priced from $14 to $30. Lynn's, which is open every night for dinner with brunch on the weekends, offers complimentary valet parking.

Strip malls and sushi restaurants. They seem to go together, like, well, pickled ginger and wasabi paste. And Hikari Sushi, a Japanese and Korean restaurant that opened this summer in the Carney Village Shopping Center, is a fine example of the breed. From the outside, the former card and gift shop, squeezed between a Mars supermarket and a Chinese restaurant, looks rather dingy, and the handwritten sign on the door urging patrons to bring their own alcohol doesn't help. (Owner Se Joon An has applied for a beer and wine license.