Shrimp

No one dares dispute that the crab is a Chesapeake Bay symbol and that Baltimoreans salivate at the mention of its succulent taste, but another, far less storied shellfish has found a comfortable harbor in the local gastronomy.The evidence isn't irrefutable, but a number of local seafood authorities say that when Baltimoreans vote with their mouths, shrimp wins over the storied crab. And a tour of Maryland seafood cookbooks dating from the 1930s shows steady inroads by shrimp over the years.

Adding a tropical flavor in salsa to broiled shrimp with a rice side dish makes a meal to remember.Shrimp have a wonderful, resilient texture and a sweet, delicate flavor. But they need a little shot of spice and acid to pick up their natural flavors. The combination of tropical papaya, lime, onions and herbs will elevate the flavor and your prestige to the top of the charts.Although most of the shrimp available are frozen, one still should be picky on the quality and source. I prefer Gulf shrimp rather than many of the Asian imports.

Toot Youngblud can scarf down some shrimp. He doesn't get to that often, but when he does, he really does. Last time it was 30 big ones - more than a pound - in five minutes. Packing in that many won him the regional tournament of the Old Bay Peel and Eat Shrimp Contest last month in Rhode Island. Tomorrow at the Harborplace Amphitheatre, Youngblud will take his seat in the contest's final round. He faces nine other eaters, a 10-minute time limit and a bowl filled with 100 shrimp. But Youngblud's not too pressed - this time, he'll have the hometown advantage.

Every Fourth of July, my folks had a bash at their home in Massachusetts. It was one of the few times of the year that family and friends from all over would come together. I remember Grandma would have on a dress and hose, my hippie Uncle Skip wore a crazy hat he would dig up for the occasion, and Aunt Alice, who could make you laugh with just a glance, sat out on the lawn in one of those brightly colored, aluminum-framed lawn chairs. Dad would organize croquet matches, my brothers would set off drugstore fireworks, and Mom took charge of everything else.

The Knights of Columbus Holy Trinity Council No. 3413 will hold a shrimp feast from 7 p.m. to midnight Aug. 4 at the Columbian Center, 335 N. Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. The event will feature a buffet of shrimp creole, barbecue pork and chicken, hot dogs, baked beans, beer, soda and a cash bar. Entertainment will be provided by Glen Burnie disc jockey Grey Fox. There also will be prize wheels and video horse races. Proceeds will go toward repairs of the Columbian Center. Tickets are $25 per person in advance and $27 at the door.

Leaving the shells on shrimp protects the delicate flesh underneath from the searing heat of a skillet, an oven or a grill. Once cooked, the shrimp is more moist, more tender. Tastier, too, as the shell infuses the shrimp with extra flavor. Only problem: eating the shrimp. Some people just eat the shrimp shell and all (I often do). Others fuss around, prying the shell off the cooked tail with fork or fingers. Serve the shrimp with Asian noodles. Bill Daley writes for the Chicago Tribune, which provided the recipe analysis.

Although caviar and smoked salmon have a strong following, I think the most popular holiday food may be icy jumbo shrimp.Shrimp are graded by the number of pieces in a pound, and packed accordingly. Shrimp marked "U-10" means there are fewer than 10 shrimp per pound, while those marked "26-30" have more and smaller shrimp per pound.Store shrimp on a cake rack in a pan. Place plastic wrap over the shrimp, then cover with flaked ice. Drain occasionally and refill with ice as necessary.Even if you're not serving them for several days, cook them in the shell and refrigerate in an airtight container, peeling just before serving.

The creative Latin cookbook "Nuovo Latino" by Douglas Rodriguez (Ten Speed Press, 1995) contains an abundance of recipes for food from the sun.The sauces are especially interesting with a combination of spices and herbs that add character without heaviness. Rodriguez's adobo is actually a marinade in the Latin venue. It can be a dry spice blend or wet as this recipe that follows. Make large batches of this basic adobo because it's a good, all-purpose marinade. Shrimp or chicken need only about 2 to 8 hours to marinate.

It's simple to take the famous fire of the Buffalo chicken wings and apply it to some other great favorites like shrimp. This recipe pairs well with some pasta and vegetables. The whole dinner should take no more than 20 minutes. For a sweet ending, serve some bakery eclairs.Fire-eater shrimpServes 41/2 cup olive oil2 teaspoons tomato paste mixed with 2 tablespoons water3 cloves garlic, minced1/2 to 1 teaspoon Tabasco or equivalent hot sauce1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeledHeat the broiler with the rack positioned four inches from the heating unit.

MAHACHAI CITY, THAILAND - Holding a plate of freshly cooked shrimp, Wichan Maungchanburi, a 41-year-old shrimp farmer, asked what price they would fetch in the United States. "I cannot sell these here," he said gruffly, sitting in front of his simple stone house in southern Thailand. "We have too many shrimp in Thailand. And now they say these are too small. These are the ones they rejected." It is not just Thailand; there are simply too many shrimp worldwide. After decades of growth spurred by the creation of giant, man-made shrimp ponds throughout Asia, and with other countries stepping up production, prices have collapsed.