Raspberry

For the past few weeks, plump, juicy, red raspberries have been the piece de resistance of our local farmer's market. Picked that very morning, the berries, packed in little wooden boxes, are irresistible. I've used my market berries in several different desserts this year. They have been delicious folded into icy-cold lemon mousse parfaits and have made a distinctive appearance in a raspberry cheesecake, but my favorite creation has been an upside-down lemon meringue pie garnished with these crimson berries and drizzled with a fresh raspberry sauce.

You may have noticed some unfamiliar labels near your favorite beer at the liquor store. In the past year, there's been an explosion of malt beverages called "malternatives," aimed at folks who are looking for a new taste in alcoholic drinks. Like beer, these beverages are brewed from malt, although the percentage of malt is lower than in beer, so the liquid doesn't darken and brewers can add other colors and flavors, says Ray Klimovitz, a Baltimore native and owner of Klimovitz Brewing Consultants Inc. of Chippewa Falls, Wis. Malternatives come in a variety of flavors ranging from raspberry to root beer, orange to iced tea. Some manufacturers add the flavors of various liquors to mimic the taste of cocktails.

2000 Georges Duboeuf Regnie ($11). Georges Duboeuf is normally among the most reliable wine producers, but his 2000 Beaujolais have been uncommonly variable. One that does stand out as very good is the 2000 Regnie, which outshines some of the more esteemed Flower Label wines in this vintage. The Regnie is atypically full-bodied, with lush flavors of raspberry and wild berries. Its acidity is in excellent balance, keeping it lively on the finish. This would be an excellent red-wine selection with grilled chicken or tuna.

IT HAS BEEN a big week for berries. Recently, I wrote about discovering the fact that dewberries, wild blackberries, were growing here in Maryland. Since then I have been deluged with letters, calls and tips from fans of various local berries. William H. Sewell of Kingsville wrote in to say he understood why dewberry picking had received little publicity. When you pick dewberries, he said, you often end up covered with bug bites. "When I was growing up across the road from my grandparents' farm in Abingdon, Harford County, we children would frequently pick dewberries on the farm," he wrote.

1999 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($21). This superb California pinot noir displays excellent fruit in a style that is close to that of Burgundy. Full-bodied, complex and rounded, it bursts with intense black cherry and raspberry flavors, seasoned with light oak and herbal nuances. The finish is long and satisfying. This would be an excellent match this summer with grilled tuna or roast chicken but also has the stuffing to go with prime rib.

1999 Beaulieu Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($14.29). This medium- to full-bodied wine is an elegant Napa-style zinfandel, not a Sonoma-style blockbuster. It offers plenty of vibrant, intense black raspberry fruit with hints of chocolate and blueberry and a creamy, smooth texture. It should go wonderfully with pizza, pasta and most red meats.

1999 Weingut Willi Schaefer Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling- Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($15). This intense, bright, vibrant German wine shows a light touch of sweetness, but not so much that it wouldn't be an excellent dinner-time companion with many foods. It's a melange of apple, pear, minerals, cherry and raspberry. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, one of the greatest in Germany, is well-known for the crystalline purity of the wines it produces. This sleek, elegant wine is an exceptional example from a terrific producer.

Item: Philadelphia Snack Bars What you get: Six bars Cost: About $3.29 Preparation time: Unwrap and eat Review: I tried as hard as I could to resist the siren call of these cheesecake bars. Then when I finally gave in, I couldn't find them in stock. The store's dairy manager said all four flavors tend to sell quickly. After trying the White Chocolate Raspberry and Chocolate Chip bars, I can see why. The bars, which also come in classic (plain) and strawberry flavors, aren't quite as fresh as cheesecake made from scratch.

A FELLOW gardener gave me a few fresh raspberries right off the bush, and I re-evaluated my opinion of this regal berry. Until then I had encountered raspberries in fancy restaurants. I was dressed up, and they were presented on a silver platter and cost a king's ransom. But the other day, when I was given a handful of free raspberries, I was standing in the mud in the middle of a community garden in Baltimore's Druid Hill Park. I had been hoeing weeds and had paused to talk with Larry Morris, a fellow gardener and guy who can grow almost anything, including raspberries.

1997 Zingaro Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($14). Hold on to your hats -- this is one exceptional zinfandel at a very attractive price. It's a wonderful example of a Mendocino-style zin -- lots of spiciness, intense black raspberry fruit and maybe even a touch of mesquite. If you're used to the blockbuster Sonoma style of zinfandel, you'll find this wine surprisingly elegant. It's also complex, intensely flavorful and a wonderful companion to serve with a gourmet-style pizza or a thick steak.