Napa Valley

1997 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Centennial Release, Napa Valley ($20). There was a time when B. V. was the premier name in Napa Valley wine. That's no longer true, but B. V. can still rise to a special occasion, as it shows with this 100th anniversary bottling of cabernet - the grape to which it owes its renown. This is a rich, classic, stylish Napa Valley cabernet - accessible but structured, full-bodied but not overstuffed. It's an elegant wine with hints of black currant, smoked meat and black cherry.

1998 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($20). Generally, California sauvignon blancs can't justify a $20 price tag. This exceptional effort from the much-respected Stag's Leap is a glorious exception. It's a full-bodied yet graceful dry white wine with nuances of figs, nuts, pears and toasty oak. Smooth texture, tremendous length, complexity -- this sauvignon blanc has it all. (If you prefer chardonnay, Stag's Leap's 1998 from the Napa Valley is also a spectacular special-occasion wine at $26.)

1997 Napa Ridge Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($20). Twenty bucks might not seem inexpensive, but it's dirt-cheap when you are talking about Napa Valley cabernet from the 1997 vintage. It's even better when the wine is as complex, rich and seductive as this one. It offers bright, vibrant, black-cherry, black-currant and vanilla flavors. Superbly structured, it can be expected to improve over the next five to10 years, as the oak flavors integrate and the bouquet emerges. But it will be hard to resist drinking it. This wine cries out to be served with a fine preparation of beef or lamb.

2002 Double T Napa Valley Red Wine ($20). Perhaps our local diner chain would like to upgrade its wine list? This Bordeaux-style blend from Trefethen Vineyards would enhance any wine list or home cellar. It's a full-bodied, intense, lush red wine with notes of black cherry, black currant, vanilla and cedar. The elegance and purity of flavor are typical of Trefethen -- one of the Napa Valley's class acts. It's good to see this winery come in with a red in this price niche. -- Michael Dresser

2005 Napa Ridge Chardonnay From: Napa Valley, Calif. Price: $12 Serve with: Salmon, grilled chicken Kudos to Napa Ridge for producing a good, inexpensive chardonnay that's actually from the Napa Valley. (There was a time when the only thing Napa about it was the name.) This is an entirely credible value for the money. It's not overly oaked and, while it's not exceptionally complex, everything is in balance. It has the predictable but quite enjoyable California chardonnay flavors of apple, lemon, vanilla and nuts.

Let's just come right out and say it: The 1994 California cabernet sauvignons are spectacular.Not just excellent. California cabernet achieves that standard about five times a decade. I mean better than such legendary vintages as 1990, 1985, 1978 and 1970. That would make 1994 the best year for cabernet in the modern era of California wine.The vintage's combination of impeccable quality and lower-than-normal quantity has led to a serious escalation in the price of the top-of-the-line boutique cabernets (and cabernet-dominated proprietary blends)

1995 Honig Sauvignon Blanc, Barrel Fermented, Napa Valley ($11)This excellent California sauvignon blanc offers a broad range of flavors: herbs, juniper, gooseberry, figs, pears and tropical fruit. It's a crisp, smoky wine with real sauvignon blanc character -- not a chardonnay wannabe. This intense, lively wine would be perfect for drinking with barbecued shrimp on a warm June night.

1996 Beringer Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($18).Warning: This is not an imitation white Burgundy. This is a ripe, full-bodied, toasty, unapologetic California chardonnay with plump fruit, lavish oak and loads of buttery flavor. Often this style of wine descends into vulgarity, but the ultra-reliable Beringer keeps it on a higher plane. Its apple, lemon and spice flavors would work marvelously with salmon in a rich cream sauce.Pub Date: 4/29/98