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By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | May 14, 2003
Each great wine region has a defining vintage every decade or so. In Bordeaux, the most recent was 2000; in the Napa Valley 1997. For Germany, 2001 is in the same class. The fruit is dramatic, the clarity is crystalline and the wines grip the palate without putting it in an acidic stranglehold. No serious wine enthusiast should miss a chance to sample these wines. Unfortunately, Maryland's enjoyment of the 2001 vintage has been hampered by distribution problems experienced by Terry Theise, the nation's premier importer of German wines.
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NEWS
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | May 14, 2003
Each great wine region has a defining vintage every decade or so. In Bordeaux, the most recent was 2000; in the Napa Valley 1997. For Germany, 2001 is in the same class. The fruit is dramatic, the clarity is crystalline and the wines grip the palate without putting it in an acidic stranglehold. No serious wine enthusiast should miss a chance to sample these wines. Unfortunately, Maryland's enjoyment of the 2001 vintage has been hampered by distribution problems experienced by Terry Theise, the nation's premier importer of German wines.
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FEATURES
By Michael Dresser | November 8, 1992
The 1991 vintage of German wines will never be famous for an abundance of highly prized sweet wines, but it produced very fine wines in the qualitatswein (QbA), kabinett and spatlese classifications.Among the top performers (with region) in the Terry Theise portfolio in the 1991 vintage were Muller-Catoir (Pfalz); Hermann Donnhoff (Nahe); Kurt Darting (Pfalz); Adolf Weingart (Mittelrhein); Selbach-Oster (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Heribert Kerpen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Weingut Merz (Rheinhessen); K. Neckerauer (Pfalz)
NEWS
By MICHAEL DRESSER | September 11, 2002
1999 Karl Erbes Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling-Kabinett. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($12). Urziger Wurzgarten is one of the most distinctive vineyard sites in Germany -- if not the world. Here, the riesling grape takes on a distinctive flavor of fresh strawberries, which combines with the more typical Mosel nuances of slate, nuts, citrus, apple and pear. The Erbes wine is a glorious example of what the Urziger Wurzgarten (Spice Garden of Urzig) can produce when the wine is made in a lightly sweet kabinett style.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser | December 7, 1997
1995 J. u. H. A. Strub Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett ($11).This modestly priced, off-dry German white wine offers all the NTC over-the-top drama and soaring high notes -- not to mention the length -- of a Wagnerian opera. It crashes on the palate with a wave of sweet, spicy, fiery fruit, but finishes dry. It cries out to be served with spicy Asian cuisine. Over the past three vintages, Strub's kabinett and spatleses have ascended to levels previously unknown in the Rheinhessen and seldom equaled anywhere in Germany.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,Staff Writer | April 10, 1994
Exported German wines fall into two basic categories, qualitatswein (QbA) and qualitatswein mit pradikat (QmP). The QbA wines can have sugar added in the fermentation process; the QmP wines cannot. The QmP wines are generally superior, but there are excellent QbA wines.There are five basic gradations of ripeness for QmP wines. In ascending order, they are kabinett, spatlese, auslese, beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese; the last two are expensive rarities made in only the ripest vintages.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and By Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | August 1, 2001
In the world of white wines, riesling rules. Forget your over-oaked, overpriced chardonnays. For sheer class in a glass, nothing compares with Germany's celebrated white-wine grape. No other white grape offers such crystalline clarity. No other so faithfully translates the soul of the soil into liquid expression. This is never more apparent than when Germany's Rhine, Nahe and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (MSR below) regions enjoy a superb vintage - as they did in 1999. The results of that warm, sunny summer can be tasted now; fine examples of the vintage are abundant in better wine stores.
NEWS
By MICHAEL DRESSER | September 11, 2002
1999 Karl Erbes Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling-Kabinett. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($12). Urziger Wurzgarten is one of the most distinctive vineyard sites in Germany -- if not the world. Here, the riesling grape takes on a distinctive flavor of fresh strawberries, which combines with the more typical Mosel nuances of slate, nuts, citrus, apple and pear. The Erbes wine is a glorious example of what the Urziger Wurzgarten (Spice Garden of Urzig) can produce when the wine is made in a lightly sweet kabinett style.
FEATURES
By MICHAEL DRESSER | February 28, 2001
1999 Weingut Willi Schaefer Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling- Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($15). This intense, bright, vibrant German wine shows a light touch of sweetness, but not so much that it wouldn't be an excellent dinner-time companion with many foods. It's a melange of apple, pear, minerals, cherry and raspberry. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, one of the greatest in Germany, is well-known for the crystalline purity of the wines it produces. This sleek, elegant wine is an exceptional example from a terrific producer.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | March 16, 1997
When you're trying to grow a warmth-loving crop such as grapes in a location on the same parallel as Winnipeg, Manitoba, you learn to roll with the punches.And there were plenty of punches for wine growers to roll with during Germany's 1995 vintage. After a warm summer, things were looking mighty good at the end of August. Then, pfffft! On came five weeks of what wine importer Terry Theise calls "utterly oogy weather."Rot ran rampant, and we're not talking about the noble kind. Bunches of healthy, ripening grapes all of a sudden looked like something found in the back of a college fraternity's refrigerator.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and By Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | August 1, 2001
In the world of white wines, riesling rules. Forget your over-oaked, overpriced chardonnays. For sheer class in a glass, nothing compares with Germany's celebrated white-wine grape. No other white grape offers such crystalline clarity. No other so faithfully translates the soul of the soil into liquid expression. This is never more apparent than when Germany's Rhine, Nahe and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (MSR below) regions enjoy a superb vintage - as they did in 1999. The results of that warm, sunny summer can be tasted now; fine examples of the vintage are abundant in better wine stores.
FEATURES
By MICHAEL DRESSER | February 28, 2001
1999 Weingut Willi Schaefer Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling- Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($15). This intense, bright, vibrant German wine shows a light touch of sweetness, but not so much that it wouldn't be an excellent dinner-time companion with many foods. It's a melange of apple, pear, minerals, cherry and raspberry. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, one of the greatest in Germany, is well-known for the crystalline purity of the wines it produces. This sleek, elegant wine is an exceptional example from a terrific producer.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser | January 20, 1999
1997 J. u. H. A. Strub Niersteiner Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen ($9/liter).This crisp, mostly dry, apple-y white wine is a terrific party riesling. It's a far more simple, direct white wine than the complex single- vineyard Nierstein wines that have made Strub one of the hottest producers in Germany. But the spiciness and clean acidity give the consumer a glimpse of the integrity of Strub's winemaking. Or, if the consumer is just looking for a bit of tasty fun, it's that too. You can serve it confidently with Cajun food or with spicy Asian cuisine.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | February 15, 1998
Let us now all raise our glasses of chardonnay and drink a toast to the most complex, most illustrious, most versatile white-wine grape in all of creation.Ladies and gentlemen, I give you -- riesling.Riesling?You betcha.Forget all the hype about chardonnay. That's merely French propaganda. Without a heavy dose of oak flavor, chardonnay seldom produces celestial wine. On its own, chardonnay is a rather bland character.Riesling needs no seasoning to produce spectacular wines. And where chardonnay is almost exclusively used to produce dry table wines, the noble riesling can excel at every sugar level -- from bone-dry to call-your-dentist sweet.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | March 16, 1997
When you're trying to grow a warmth-loving crop such as grapes in a location on the same parallel as Winnipeg, Manitoba, you learn to roll with the punches.And there were plenty of punches for wine growers to roll with during Germany's 1995 vintage. After a warm summer, things were looking mighty good at the end of August. Then, pfffft! On came five weeks of what wine importer Terry Theise calls "utterly oogy weather."Rot ran rampant, and we're not talking about the noble kind. Bunches of healthy, ripening grapes all of a sudden looked like something found in the back of a college fraternity's refrigerator.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,Staff Writer | April 10, 1994
Exported German wines fall into two basic categories, qualitatswein (QbA) and qualitatswein mit pradikat (QmP). The QbA wines can have sugar added in the fermentation process; the QmP wines cannot. The QmP wines are generally superior, but there are excellent QbA wines.There are five basic gradations of ripeness for QmP wines. In ascending order, they are kabinett, spatlese, auslese, beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese; the last two are expensive rarities made in only the ripest vintages.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser and Michael Dresser,SUN WINE CRITIC | February 15, 1998
Let us now all raise our glasses of chardonnay and drink a toast to the most complex, most illustrious, most versatile white-wine grape in all of creation.Ladies and gentlemen, I give you -- riesling.Riesling?You betcha.Forget all the hype about chardonnay. That's merely French propaganda. Without a heavy dose of oak flavor, chardonnay seldom produces celestial wine. On its own, chardonnay is a rather bland character.Riesling needs no seasoning to produce spectacular wines. And where chardonnay is almost exclusively used to produce dry table wines, the noble riesling can excel at every sugar level -- from bone-dry to call-your-dentist sweet.
FEATURES
By Michael Dresser | November 8, 1992
The 1991 vintage of German wines will never be famous for an abundance of highly prized sweet wines, but it produced very fine wines in the qualitatswein (QbA), kabinett and spatlese classifications.Among the top performers (with region) in the Terry Theise portfolio in the 1991 vintage were Muller-Catoir (Pfalz); Hermann Donnhoff (Nahe); Kurt Darting (Pfalz); Adolf Weingart (Mittelrhein); Selbach-Oster (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Heribert Kerpen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); Weingut Merz (Rheinhessen); K. Neckerauer (Pfalz)
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