Creme Fraiche

The history of corn stretches back some 7,000 years. Today corn figures prominently in the hearts of cooks and diners throughout the world.Cornmeal Blini With Smoked Salmon and Creme FraicheServes 41/2 cup all-purpose unbleached flour1/2 cup fine yellow cornmeal2 teaspoons baking powder1/2 teaspoon salt3/4 cup milk1 egg2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted8 ounces sliced smoked salmon1/2 cup creme fraiche or sour creamcapers, pickled onions, nasturtium petals,...

When one discusses "the berries," it's quite possible it's the raspberry being recognized. And raspberries are recognizable nowadays in supermarkets and thickets near you; it is their season.Raspberries are related to the rose and the blackberry. At their best, they are as fragrant as the rose and as sweet as the fattest, juiciest blackberry deep within the thorns.Though raspberries most often are seen in their red glory, there are also black to purple to golden yellow berries.The little seed sacs are called drupelets, and raspberry lovers will chase one across the table if supplies are low.Raspberries are tasty eaten out of hand, folded into fresh fruit tarts, pies, mousses, shortcakes and sorbets, says Carole Bloom in "The International Dictionary of Desserts, Pastries and Confections" (Hearst, $18)

Stone Manor, 5820 Carroll Boyer Road, Middletown; (301) 473-5454. Major credit cards. Open for dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., Sundays 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Prix-fixe menus, $45 and $55. ***As we approached the fieldstone house, the door opened and a woman stood there beckoning us in. Behind her in the foyer two musicians were playing the last strains of "The Tennessee Waltz." It was unexpected, to say the least.We had arrived at Stone Manor that Sunday for the last dinner seating at 6 p.m. The musicians, it turned out, were from that afternoon's "Harvest Tea" and dance.

Calling all chocolate loversA little bit of self-indulgence can be the perfect antidote to deadly winter doldrums. And if a worthwhile community cause also benefits, it's all the more reason to treat yourself.Treats there will certainly be when Action for the Homeless presents "A Chocolate Affair" from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Thursday, Feb. 3, in the Charles Room of the Belvedere Hotel, 1 E. Chase St., in downtown Baltimore.Guests can sample chocolate confections prepared by notable local chocolatiers, restaurateurs and caterers -- among them are Cafe Montage, Linwood's, Truffles, Germano's, Lee's Ice Cream, Cameo Chocolates, Vaccaro's, Charles Levine and Sweet Indulgence.

Q: Some baking recipes say to cool in the pan; others say to cool on a wire rack. Which is better?A: A method that combines both is usually recommended. As a rule of thumb, cakes and other baked goods should be left in their pans on a wire rack to cool for about 10 minutes. If you try to remove a cake from its pan immediately after baking, it can stick or fall apart because it is so tender. By letting some baked products sit in the pan for a short period of time, the edges begin to cool and pull away from the sides, making removal easier.

Because I was intimidated by too many television chef programs, fish poaching was not among my preferred cooking methods. As I watched the masters swaddling a whole fish in cheesecloth and wrestling it into a $150 fish poacher, I decided I'd rather get out the grill. Poaching looked too risky. I could barely fit four hamburgers into my skillet; what could I do with a whitefish?It took me years to realize that poaching enough fish for two is far easier than doing a whole salmon or comparable fish.

Never mind if there's still a nip in the air. If asparagus comes, can spring be far behind?To be sure, the globalization of grocery produce means you can't infallibly tell the seasons from what shows up the shelves. But there's something about the appearance of those slender green stalks about the same time as the daffodils that promises warmer days and more flowers in the garden.In fact, asparagus is a sort of flower -- a member of the lily family, according to the California Culinary Academy's "Cooking A to Z."

LAUREL -- Mario Pino says he thinks six furlongs might not be far enough for Smart Alec, a maturing 4-year-old. But when the second Northern Wolf Handicap is run today at Laurel Race Course, Pino expects the colt to be moving best of all at the finish."

The dairy case is full of contradictions, as low-fat items face off against products with old-fashioned rich flavor.Despite the rise of non-fat yogurts, reduced-fat spreads, cholesterol-free cheeses, cream substitutes, skim milk and 1 percent-fat milk, the people who make creme fraiche, rich European-style butters and whole milk in bottles are suddenly finding that they cannot keep up with the demand. What's going on?"Perhaps people are starting to believe in quality calories," said Steven Jenkins, the manager of the cheese department at Dean & DeLuca in Manhattan.