Black Pepper

Just for Christmas, we'll step out of the moderate price category to recommend a special wine for a gift or Christmas dinner. This red Rhone wine is a classic of its kind -- an exceptionally intense wine with flavors of black pepper, blackberry, roast meats, herbs and those indefinably warm earthy flavors you only find in the Rhone. For all its robustness and aging potential, it's supple enough to enjoy young. Go on, splurge.

There's no substitute for the pungent bite and warmth of pepper. Black pepper is made from sun-dried berries. Milder than black pepper and preferred in light-colored dishes are white peppercorns, produced by hulling dried ripe pepper berries.Green peppercorns, prepared from immature berries, are packed in brine or water or freeze-dried. Their tangy astringency is fundamental to tartar sauce, and they are often combined with white or black pepper in fish and meat dishes.Good accompaniments for this simple but aristocratic dish are sauteed potatoes and barely tender steamed asparagus or snow peas.

Liquid marinades made with citrus juice, vinegar or wine are marvelous for breaking down the muscle fiber in tougher cuts of meat and for adding flavor. But here's the rub: Delicate fish can disintegrate in acidic liquids, and naturally tender cuts of meat need only a flavor boost -- not tenderizing.A better technique for flavoring such foods is to treat them to a gentle massage with dried herbs and spices.By making your own herb-and-spice rubs, you can custom-mix blends for beef, pork, lamb or fish.

These flavorful seasoning blends don't contain any salt. They could be the perfect gift for the health-conscious person on your list. The recipes are from the American Heart Association's 1990 "Low-Fat, Low-Cholesterol Cookbook" edited by Scott M. Grundy.Store the seasonings in an airtight container in a cool, dry, dark place for up to six months.Herb Seasoning1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper1 tablespoon garlic powder1 teaspoon dried basil1 teaspoon dried marjoram1 teaspoon dried thyme1 teaspoon dried parsely1 teaspoon dried savory1 teaspoon mace1 teaspoon onion powder1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon powdered sageCombine all ingredients in medium bowl.

Last fall, in the Perigord, a region in southwestern France, I picked up a little jar of balsamic onion marmalade with a handwritten label. In an attempt to duplicate the recipe, I sauteed chopped onions in a small amount of butter and sugar until soft and brown, then added balsamic vinegar, red wine and dark raisins to the pan. The onions were cooked several minutes more until the vinegar and wine had almost evaporated and the mixture was glistening and...

This granita calls for a good, fruity wine such as merlot, which usually has cherry undertones. Although very intense, it contains little alcohol because it's burned off in the reduction. If you're serving it as a palate cleanser between courses, use less sugar. As a dessert, it's a marvelous accompaniment to fresh strawberries. For a lighter version, use a chardonnay or pinot grigio infused with orange or lemon rind. Red-Wine-and-Black-Pepper Granita Makes 4 servings 1 (750 milliliter)

I used to experience violent migraine headaches until I started using feverfew on the advice of a friend. Are there any side effects I should know about? I would hate to stop, because feverfew has been a godsend for me. Feverfew is a wildflower that grows abundantly in the North-eastern United States. This herb was used by ancient Greek healers. Research has shown that feverfew helps reduce the severity and incidence of migraines. Side effects might include mouth ulcers, indigestion and increased heart rate.

1999 Guigal Cotes du Rhone (red) and 2000 Guigal Cotes du Rhone (white). $11. The master winemaker of the Rhone Valley scores twice with his current releases of his bargain-priced Cotes du Rhones. The full-bodied red is one of his best yet -- with vibrant blackberry and raspberry fruit and nuances of blueberry and black pepper. Serve with red meat, pasta or grilled poultry. The dry white has good weight and roundness, with flavors of pear, lemon, slate and white pepper. This would be ideal to serve with white-fleshed fish.

2003 Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha, Calatayud ($10). This Spanish red wine is an incredible value that is well worth buying by the case. Made from the grape known as grenache in France, it offers rich and nuanced flavors of blackberry, black pepper, blueberry, chocolate and herbs. Imagine a cross between a fine Chateauneuf-du-Pape and a good California zinfandel. It's smooth, ripe and earthy - and it competes well with wines at three times the price. - Michael Dresser