Local chefs share cool, creative uses for eggs

October 02, 2014|By Kit Waskom Pollard | For The Baltimore Sun

Local chefs share cool, creative uses for the kitchen staple.
By Kit Waskom Pollard

Eggs can do it all. Equally at home as breakfast on the go or as the centerpiece of an elegant dinner, it’s no wonder that the simple ingredient holds a special place in chefs’ hearts. Here, four local chefs share their favorite egg preparations, ranging from a simple crab omelet to delicate, sophisticated croquettes.

Egg Yolk Croquettes with Bacon, Comté & Truffle
Yields 6 servings

In the Lord Baltimore Hotel’s restaurant, The French Kitchen, Chef Jordan Miller experiments with high-tech toys, turning out dishes that combine ambition with great flavor — such as these carefully constructed croquettes in heady cheese-truffle-bacon sauce.

It should come as little surprise, then, that this recipe requires specialized equipment, including an iSi professional cream whipper and nitrous oxide canisters, and unusual ingredients, including xanthan gum and carrageenan, as thickening agents. These items can be purchased at specialty food and kitchen goods stores and online at sources like amazon.com.

Croquettes:

6 large organic egg yolks
3-4 cups canola oil for frying
2 large organic eggs
¾ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
¾ cup regular bread crumbs
About 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, cleaned from the stems, to taste
1 cup rice flour

1. Fill a wide, shallow pot with water, set over high heat and bring to 148 degrees Fahrenheit (64 degrees Celsius). You can regulate the cooking temperature of the water using a digital thermometer or use an immersion circulator cooking bath. Place the egg yolks in the water and cook, maintaining the temperature, for 45 minutes.
2. Once the egg yolks are fully cooked, transfer them to a bowl filled with room-temperature water, to cool.
3. In a pan over high heat, heat the canola oil (enough to cover the croquettes) to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
4. Meanwhile, whisk the two whole eggs in a small bowl.
5. In a separate bowl, combine the panko, regular bread crumbs and fresh thyme.
6. Fill a third bowl with the rice flour.
7. Remove the cooked egg yolks from the bath with a slotted spoon and let drain.
8. One at a time, place the yolks first into the bowl with the rice, completely coating the yolks until they are dry.
9. Next, place the flour-dredged yolks into the bowl with the beaten eggs and completely submerge.
10. Finally, place the egg-battered yolks in the panko-bread crumb mixture.
11. Fry the croquettes in the canola oil until golden brown, about 45 seconds to one minute.
12. Drain croquettes on paper towels.

Cheese and bacon sauce:

About 1 cup chicken stock
¼ cup bacon trimmings
2 ½ ounces grated Gruyère de Comté cheese
1 ¼ grams (about ¼ teaspoon) xanthan gum
2 ½ grams (about ½ teaspoon) carrageenan
½ teaspoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Truffle salt to taste
Drizzle of truffle oil
Fresh chopped chives to garnish

1. Place the chicken stock in a small pot and bring to a boil.
2. Add the bacon trimmings to the stock and turn down the heat, allowing the mixture to simmer for 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Using a whisk or immersion blender, blend the grated Gruyère into the stock.
4. Add the xanthan gum, carrageenan and lemon juice into the mixture, whisking or blending vigorously to hydrate the xanthan gum and carrageenan.
5.Season the mixture with salt.
6. Pour the mixture through a fine mesh strainer.
7. Pour the hot cheese mixture into an iSi canister and charge with two nitrous oxide canisters. Shake vigorously.
8. Whip the cheese sauce onto the plate, and place the egg yolk croquette on top.
9. Season with truffle salt, truffle oil and fresh chives.

Irish Bibimbap
Yields 1 serving

Slainte, the much-loved Fells Point pub, is known for its Irish breakfast. Chef Chris Marquis takes a global look at the most important meal of the day, adding Irish ingredients like corned beef to bibimbap, a traditional Korean dish of egg and rice.

Pickled Cabbage:

1 head green cabbage, shredded (purple cabbage and/or additional shredded carrots can also add fun color)
1 cup rice wine vinegar
1 ½ cups water
¼ cup salt
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon peppercorns
4 or 5 bay leaves

1. Place the shredded cabbage in a bowl.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients to a pot and bring to a boil over high heat.
3. Pour the boiling liquid over the cabbage. Bring to room temperature, then place in the refrigerator to chill for at least four hours (but best overnight).

Bibimbap:

About 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup cooked jasmine rice
½ cup cooked corned beef, chopped (preferably cooked from scratch)
1 cup mixed vegetables, such as zucchini, squash, peppers, red onion and carrots, chopped or cut into small slices of similar sizes
¼ cup pickled cabbage
1 egg
Sriracha to drizzle
Chopped spring onions to garnish

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