Wine Find | 2012 A Proper Claret

(Handout photo )
May 27, 2014

From: California

Price: $16

Serve with: Lamb, steak & kidney pie

Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards brings us his playful take on the style of red Bordeaux enjoyed in a fine old London club. It's a liquid repudiation of the huge, highly alcoholic blockbuster California cabernet sauvignons that Grahm apparently finds improper. This claret starts from a cabernet base, but skillful blending of petit verdot, petite sirah and tannat to achieve a most proper Bordeaux-like balance and a restrained alcohol level of 13.2 percent. It's not heavy-handed, and it even has a little of that lead-pencil flavor found in fine Bordeaux. The label is typical Grahm humor, providing a good laugh with a very good wine.

--Michael Dresser, The Baltimore Sun

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