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Reports from the runways

Tracy Reese, Zang Toi and GenArt Fresh Faces

September 10, 2012|By John-John Williams IV, The Baltimore Sun

Toronto-based designers Chloe and Parris Gordon, have a bright future if their showing is an indication of their ability. With plenty of movement, and a delicate feminine feel, chloe comme parris, is a line I could see sold in places like anthropologie. The clothes have mass market appeal, while maintaining a high-end boutique feel. My favorites of from the collection--and there were many--included the printed blazer, printed pant, and blue blouse ensemble, and the floating flower dress.

 

Amanda Lew Kee, also from Toronto, has quickly made a name for herself by working closely with the entertainment industry. From

designing looks for HBO's "True Blood," to providing custom pieces for actress Shenae Grimes ("90210"), Lew Kee has found a niche. She continued that star power by dressing actress Tika Sumpter ("Gossip Girl" and "Sparkle"), who emceed the GenArt Fresh Faces show. Lew Kee's collection didn't wow me. But there were some pieces that I thought were absolutely stunning. i loved the turquoise perferated leather track jacket with wide leg silk pants. That was chic, and elegant. I also loved the metallic pink Doc Martins that Lew Kee help to design in conjunction with the company. Those were extremely hot.

 

Comeforbreakfast, a brand created by Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna in September 2009, has already received the Vogue Italia seal of approval as one of the emerging Vogue Talents. But I found the overall collection fell a bit flat. There was a mix of mens and womenswear, but I didn't feel that the colors of silhouettes would make customers seek out pieces from the brand. I must say that I was thoroughly impressed with their leather hoodie combo that was paired with a printed organza pleated skirt and printed sleeveless parka with leather insert. That was truly stunning.

 

Zang Toi

(Sunday at Lincoln Center)

If there was one designer who captured the feel of Chanel of old, it had to be Zang Toi. It's actually ironic that images of Chanel came about--Toi said that the collection was inspired by the romantic French Riviera.

The famed designer put on quite a production for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week standards. His models--both men and women--would interact with one another in the former of sheepishly looking back at one another on the runway. It added another level of romanticism. 

It's rare for designers to have both a mens- and womenswear collection and to excell at both, but that's precisely what Toi did.

His suits and tuxedos for men were flawless. His dresses, gowns, and separates for women were equally as stunning.

Toi's show was arguably one of the best of the season. While Christian Siriano had a stronger collection top to bottom, Toi threw in more show-stopping pieces. He received three separate rounds of applause while his show was in full swing, which is something that I have not seen at this level.

His gowns were simply first class. Accents such as crystal caplets and rose bouquets made of rich fabrics and were in abundance and added to the opulence of the garments. 

 Run, do not walk to the nearest high-end store where he's sold, and buy some of his pieces. They are truly special.

 

 

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