Good Taste: Stained Glass Pub

April 01, 2011|By Donna Ellis

Location is by no means the only thing the Stained Glass Pub has going for it. This younger version of its Silver Spring sibling already has earned itself word-of-mouth praise and many regulars.

Billed as a “family restaurant and sports bar,” this Dorsey Road eatery, which replaced Joe Theismann’s in October 2008, is noted for pizza and pub grub. The ambiance is quite relaxed — lots of wood, an ample bar and nicely divided dining areas.

The menu is accessible, too. All your pub favorites, many of them done up with creative touches that make the food more fun. Plus entrées that feature everything from jumbo lump crab cakes or New York strip to Mom’s lasagna or Aunt Peggy’s meatloaf or the popular seafood gumbo. There are also daily specials, depending on the whims of kitchen manager Mark Steckbeck and head cook Mario.

Prices are pretty easy to take, too. There are about 20 appetizers. Try hot crab dip (we did); shrimp steamed with red potatoes, onions, Old Bay and beer; white queso nachos; cheeseburger sliders; or an Asian sampler that boasts seared tuna, pot stickers and won ton shrimp. Prices range $7.59-$11.99.

The same relatively reasonable price ranges hold true for most everything else on the Pub menu, except the entrée/dinners: the five different burgers, the eight “pub favorites” sandwiches, the 11 “specialty sandwiches.”

The Elkridge version of the Stained Glass Pub is modeled after the venerable Silver Spring eatery, which opened in 1973 and is known for its pizza. You can get that on Dorsey Road, too. The tomato and cheese versions are $8.19 for the small, $11.49 for medium and $14.49 for large. Fourteen toppings are available.

When it came to entrées, we had to try the pizza, of course. One taster opted for a tomato and cheese, topped with pepperoni and green peppers. The crust was paper thin, yet crunchy. Even though it contained  yeast, it didn’t have that chewy texture you expect but was flaky in texture instead.

Mom’s lasagna ($10.99) from the entrée section was southern Italian comfort on a plate. Really homey, with a rich, thick sauce replete with ground sirloin and mild Italian sausage, lots of oozy cheeses, and familiarly flavored herbs. An ample portion, accompanied by three pieces of warm, crusty garlic bread for additional carb intake.

The wrap sandwich is endemic these days, but one Stained Glass Pub version, the Old Bay Shrimp Wrap ($10.99), was a standout. Big chunks of nicely seasoned crisp-tender colossal shrimp lightly laved in a light housemade aioli-type sauce. Very satisfying.

The same shrimp salad was an ingredient in the Seafood Club, which that evening was $19.99 (market price). One reason for the market-price tag is because this combination three-decker club is actually a trio of American sandwich favorites: a BLT, a shrimp salad sandwich, and a crab cake sandwich. All on lightly toasted white bread. This charming, creative offering was easily enough for two.

The Pub has a dessert menu, which you can ask about. But since the four of us were groaningly full, we decided not to pursue the subject.

The question du jour for our tasting guests is always, “Would you come back?” In the case of the Stained Glass Pub, the answer was a resounding “Yes!”

The pub is open seven days a week; carryout and catering are available. There are rotating nightly specials, including half-price pizza Mondays and Tuesdays, Trivia Tuesdays, Wing and Wine Wednesdays, a DJ on Fridays. Outdoor dining in season.

Stained Glass Pub, 6751 Dorsey Road, Elkridge, 410-796-4345 or stainedglasspub.net.

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