Tio Pepe is one of those constants in the world of wine. As a nonvintage blend of bone-dry sherry, it doesn't change from year to year. It may not be the greatest fino sherry; it is simply the definitive wine of its type — certainly the best-known dry sherry around the world. Tio Pepe is a pale-colored wine of great complexity and elegance, with hints of almond and very subtle citrus. Its distinguishing feature is a hint of salt water, as though it were meant to be sipped by the sea. If you tasted this wine in your youth and thought it too severe, it's worth retasting to see if your palate has changed. It may be in broad distribution; that doesn't mean it isn't a classic expression of a great style of wine. Serve it cold, on the rocks if necessary.