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A Spicy Mix Of Peruvian Fare

Restaurant Review

Chicken, Traditional Dishes Shine At Highlandtown Eatery

October 15, 2009|By Richard Gorelick , Special to The Baltimore Sun

Chicken Rico has other food, too, and you'll see when you look around that many customers have moved beyond the chicken into other traditional Peruvian dishes. They are worth checking out. There is a wonderfully turned-out version of fried trout, with a delicately seasoned coating and very white, very moist flesh inside. Bistec al pobre is Peru's entry into the international astonishing food pileup competition, with sunny-side-up eggs perched atop a freshly seared sirloin strip, accompanied by grilled onions, served with french fries and a timbale of rice.

Lomo saltado is a slightly more restrained beef dish, an Asian style stir-fry of marinated beef and vegetables, served with fried rice and an ear of Peruvian giant white corn.

On weekends only, Chicken Rico serves Peruvian-style ceviche, one version with fish only and another with seafood. The presentation of Peruvian-style ceviche, which includes a hunk of cooked sweet potato and some form of corn (here toasted giant white corn kernels) is something to see, even if the fish itself will be too salty for most tastes.

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Many customers find it hard to resist Chicken Rico's soda case, ending up with a can of Diet Inca soda or a bottle of Dona Isabel Chicha Morada, a beverage made from purple corn. There is a menu of subs and sandwiches, too, and, really, the chicken and beef burritos here are spoken of with almost as much enthusiasm as the rotisserie.

Desserts are gooey things like arroz con leche or mazamorra morada, a glutinous pudding made from purple corn and cherries. Oddly, they're just what you want.

On the menu

* Chicken with two sides - full $13.99/half $7.25/quarter $5.25

* Lomo saltado - $8.99

* Bisteca al pobre - $11.99

* Fried trout - $8.50

* Ceviche - $9.99

Chicken Rico

Where: 3728 Eastern Ave.

Contact: 410-522-2950

Hours: 7 days, 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Credit cards: Master Card, Visa, Amex, Discover

Appetizers: $1.75 - $2.75

Entrees: $5.99 - $12.75

Food: *** ( 3 STARS)

Service: *** ( 3 STARS)

Atmosphere: *** ( 3 STARS)

[Outstanding: **** Good: ***

Fair or uneven: ** Poor: *]

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