John Pantelis Karsos, who with his wife owned and operated a popular York Road restaurant for more than three decades, died of a stroke Saturday at his Towson home. He was 86.
Mr. Karsos, the son of farmers, was born and raised in Kambia on the Greek island of Chios. Educated in Kambia, Mr. Karsos served in the Greek army during the Korean War.
In 1963, he immigrated to New York City with his wife, the former Kyriaki Fotenos, whom he had married in 1954.
He went to work in a restaurant owned by his sister-in-law and later furthered his culinary training working for a brother-in-law at his Culpeper, Va., restaurant.
After moving to Greektown in Southeast Baltimore in 1966, the couple purchased the County Coffee Shop in the 400 block of York Road in the heart of Towson, renamed it the County Restaurant and added dishes to the menu from their homeland.
"He was basically a self-taught cook," said his son, Peter I. Karsos of Towson, now a mortgage banker, who worked alongside his parents in the business, prepping and cleaning. "They were open from 5 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and served breakfast, lunch and dinner."
The son said the restaurant was a popular destination for Baltimore County workers, police officers and WMAR-TV employees.
"He'd even stay late to feed the homeless who were hungry," he said.
When a snowstorm blanketed Towson, county crews made certain the sidewalk in front of the restaurant was swept clear of snow.
The restaurant was known for its daily specials.
"Mondays was beef stew day and Tuesdays and Wednesdays were Greek specialties. On Thursdays, it was spare ribs, and Fridays it was lamb shish kebab, flounder and veal parmigiana. On Saturday, our special was spaghetti and meatballs," the son said.
"Dad did the cooking and Mom made the desserts, such as rice pudding, coconut pie and baklava," he said.
The couple, who became U.S. citizens in 1972, were affectionately called "Mr. John" and "Mrs. K" by longtime patrons.
"It was a typical 1950s-style neighborhood eatery that served meals that were quick and inexpensive. What set it apart from its competitors in those days was the inclusion of Greek specialties during the week," said James A. Genthner, now retired from the State Highway Administration, who dined there at least once a week during the 1970s.
Customers could eat at the counter or at comfortable tables and booths.
