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Howard's In Mount Vernon Gets Happy

Restaurant Review

September 10, 2009|By Richard Gorelick , Special to The Baltimore Sun

So I'll take it on credit that the Reuben is a good sandwich. I know the chili is terrific, spicy with a generous amount of ground beef. The Caesar salad is a good effort, presented prettily with shaved Parmesan. The house Caesar dressing, I thought, was too bland, though, just kind of creamy.

For a first visit, I'd go on a weekend, when you're not in a hurry to get somewhere. Howard's offers an all-you-can-eat brunch, from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., for $12. (That sounds to me like the kind of thing that leads to lunchtime meltdowns.) Try something like the cookbook-classic version of French toast, or the crispy-edged pancakes with whipped cream. The egg preparations are what a friend of mine calls "hotel style," more fluffy than buttery. Bacon should be chopped, and not left whole, when put into an omelet, I think.

Good service makes a big difference - coffee refills keep coming, and if a courtyard table opens, the staff will help you move all of your plates and glasses outside.

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On the menu

* Penne Marinara Fra Diavlo - $8

* Grilled Reuben - $7

* Howard's famous chili - $3 cup/$5 bowl

* Caesar salad - $4

* French toast - $6

* Three-egg omelet - $7

Howard's Delly of Mount Vernon

Where: : 900 Cathedral St.

Contact: : 410-539-2009

Hours: : 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily

Credit cards: : MC, VISA, AMEX

Appetizers/sides: : $2-$6

Entrees: : $6-$11

Food: : ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Service: : ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Atmosphere: : ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

[Outstanding: **** Good: ***

Fair or uneven: ** Poor: *]

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