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Mix Of Food, Music, Fun

August 27, 2009|By Richard Gorelick , Special to The Baltimore Sun

Another appetizer we tried, pastelitos de carne, simply little beef pies with cabbage, was unappetizing, either because they'd been sitting around (they were stale and almost beefless), or because of the sauce poured on top of them that tasted like Russian dressing.

There was something a little tired, too, about a pork chop entr?e, which the menu made sound succulent - "pan-fried in olive oil, onions, and tomato sauce" - but which was just too dry when it was served. It did have nice flavor, though, and its accompanying black beans, rice and plantains were well handled. Not so much the little green salad. The appetizer we had especially been craving, the yuca with chicharr?n (delectable nuggets of fried pork) wasn't available.

The house specialties here are the entr?e soups, one featuring seafood and the other beef. The version with beef is worth checking out. There's not pretense that this is fancy food; it's the kind of one-pot affair that just about everyone's grandmother made out of leftover meat and vegetables and that just about everyone loves. Here, too, the beef and vegetables (cabbage, yuca, carrots) get tender, and the flavors have a roundness and depth that only comes from slow simmering. After the flautas, though, it's unfinishable.

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It did feel as if dining wasn't the primary focus at Carlos O'Charlies, if it ever was. Whatever loyalty and patronage it's won from Highlandtown residents probably has more to do with how well it mixes food with music and fun.

Carlos O'Charlies

Where: : 3508 Eastern Ave.

Call: : 410-675-1485

Open: : 10 a.m.-1 a.m. daily

Credit cards: : AMEX, Visa, Master Card

Appetizers: : $2-$9.99

Entrees: : $8.95-$15.95

Food: : ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Service: : ** (2 stars)

Atmosphere: : ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

[Outstanding: **** Good: ***

Fair or uneven: ** Poor: *]

On the menu

* Flautas - $6.99

* Plantains with crema - $3.95

* Beef pie with marinated cabbage - $2

* Salvadoran pork chop - $10.50

* Beef soup - $8.95

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