Pairings Bistro has a gimmick. A good gimmick. And it seems to be working; Bel Air's newest wine bar seems to be doing very well, even in the middle of a recession.
The name refers to the fact that every dish on the menu is paired with a wine - and sometimes two or three. The wines, by the glass or bottle, are numbered. The numbers are printed under the dish's description. So, for instance, if you decide to order the crab cake with shaved fennel slaw and Old Bay chips, you'll find that Pairings recommends having with it either No. 206 (the 2007 Ile La Forge Viognier) or No. 209 (the 2008 Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc).
The only downside for the customer is that most of the dishes are small plates, so you might have to choose from very different wine suggestions if you assemble a meal of three or four of them.
The concept is the brainchild of chef/owner Jon Kohler, who at one point worked as a manager for a wine distributor. He's created a bistro list of Old and New World wines, with many by the glass, and a good selection of beers.
The short menu has been well thought out to go with both wines and beers. It's mostly small plates, but there are soups, salads and cheeses from Spain, France and local farms. The small plates are divided into local, Mediterranean and French/Belgian. (Kohler's wife, Sandy, is from Brussels.)
Pairings' tiny dining room is somewhat at odds with the sophistication of the menu. It looks like any nice suburban shopping center restaurant, although smaller than most. The bar and open kitchen dominate the room, which seats 30 or so. There are more tables out front, but the view isn't great. They overlook the parking lot.
When we were there, the dining room was surprisingly warm. I'm not complaining, but a lot of people would want it cooler. The sun streams in the plate glass windows, and the open kitchen produces its own heat.
The place was packed on a weeknight, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's the norm. The staff are very personable, which is both a good and a bad thing. Our table was right by the kitchen counter, and our food was so close I could have served it myself by reaching over. Throughout our meal, dishes sat there a long time while our waitress chatted with customers at the bar and at other tables. If I were a regular, I'd like the personal attention. On a first visit, it was a little disconcerting.
