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Piv's Pub Takes The Middle Ground

Restaurant Review

But Better Food Might Help Out The Upscale Casual Eatery

July 09, 2009|By Richard Gorelick , Special to The Baltimore Sun

There was an objection or two to almost everything else we tried. There was way too much balsamic vinegar splashed into the tomato and mozzarella toppings of a simple bruschetta appetizer. This made the mozzarella look discolored and your mouth pucker. Another appetizer, skewered chicken and filet mignon, was actively bad in many ways, from the not-so-mignon-y quality of the beef to its awkward presentation, which included an unbilled - and rather cumbersome - bed of saffron rice.

Shrimp salad, served on a soft roll, tasted too much like the coleslaw that accompanied it, disappointingly bland. St. Louis ribs were not meaty enough and too messy, even for ribs, because the sauce wasn't sticking to the meat. The problem with a grilled Cajun salmon entree was that its smoky, slightly acrid tomato sauce seemed to have traveled over from another dish.

It could be we missed some better choices from both ends of the spectrum - a Reuben sandwich, the stuffed sea bass, maybe the prime rib. The dining room, when we visited, had a good buzz. You could tell diners were happy here. I liked the feel of Piv's lounge side, too, which looks like a hangout for regulars who have learned what things are worth ordering.

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The thing to do would be to come here to watch an Orioles game, and ask around.

On the menu

* Baby spinach salad - $7.99 (with salmon - additional $4.99)

* Penne pasta and blackened chicken - $9.99

* St. Louis BBQ ribs, half rack - $9.99

* Shrimp salad sandwich - $8.99

* Filet mignon & chicken skewers - $9.99

* Cajun salmon - $18.99

* Penne pasta with blackened chicken - $9.99

Piv's Pub

Where: 9811 York Road, Cockeysville

Call: 410-666-7487

Open: 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Friday and noon-11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Food: ** (2 stars)

Service: ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Atmosphere: ** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Credit cards: MC, VISA, AMEX

Appetizers: $7.99-$12.99

Entrees: $9.99-$23.99

[Outstanding: **** Good: *** Fair or uneven: ** Poor: *]

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