A New Way To Feed The World

With Wild Fish Dwindling, Scientists At The Columbus Center Hope To Demonstrate The Viability Of Their 'Greener' Aquaculture

"This sounds to me like they are really innovative, moving in the right direction," says Trenor, who adds that Zohar is smart to try to compete with a popular import like branzini. European farming of the fish is "high waste," the Greenpeace activist says. If the UM scientists can raise their fish without feeding them pellets made from other fish, so much the better, he adds.

Damon R. Hersh, head chef for Kali's Court and Mezze restaurants in Fells Point, says he was "absolutely blown away" by the UM center's operation after touring it recently.

Kali's Court, which bills itself as an upscale, Mediterranean-style seafood restaurant, carries whole, grilled bronzini (an alternate spelling) as one of its premier entrees, at $34 a serving. Hersh says he serves 200 to 300 a week and has been getting his supply flown in from Greece via Philadelphia. But after tasting some provided by Zohar, the chef says he would love to have a local source that is hours away instead of days, as long as the price is right.

"The texture is a little bit firmer, the flavor a little bit more alive," Hersh says. "The coloration is gorgeous. And, of course, the shelf life is fantastic - they're fresh."

Hersh is so enthusiastic that he invited chefs from area restaurants to tour the Columbus Center fish operation on Tuesday.

"I'm very excited," the chef says. "If this is the direction or wave of future aquaculture, then I'm all behind it."

Zohar says he's finishing a business plan that envisions producing 200 tons of fish a year in tanks that can be housed in a modest-size warehouse nearly anywhere; the only water needed comes from the tap. He's aiming to produce the fish for $4 to $5 a pound, he says, with a premium for their "freshness factor."

Once he demonstrates the viability of the system, Zohar hopes to see others replicate and expand it.

"I'm not a businessman," he says. "What really drives me is ... feeding the world."