A Hunger For Traditional Foods Of Summers Past

OK. I'm picky. Maybe very picky. What is the stranglehold of Key lime pie on menus? Where, on a hot Baltimore evening, is the lemon merengue pie (with thin crust) that I crave? Don't even mention peach cake - very hard to find except at certain bakeries.

You'll be offered burnt orange creme brulee. (I have nothing against creme brulee. My mother often made it, generally on steaming, unair-conditioned August nights when it gave her a chance to light the broiler.)

Another dark secret of mine - I'm not crazy about outdoor charcoal grilling and marinades and rubs. Grills often overcook; sometimes the food tastes of lighter fluid. Give me a good frying pan and a knowledgeable cook. The marinades can overpower meat's natural taste.

With summertime, I have nostalgic thoughts of roadside stands, but it seems even they have disappeared. On the way to the beach, I could depend on Route 16's Farmer Bill's or Elmer's. Both are now gone. Could it be the presence of the farmers' markets at home?

I am often amazed by the so-called artisanal breads served and sold today. Many are delicious, but do I need another bread infused with rosemary? No. I want a homemade, yeasty soft dinner roll. Try finding one.