I've been here before. I've been here when it was Vespa, and twice when it was Juniors in two different incarnations. Hey, I was even here when it was Pimella's Market Cafe.
Now it's Taverna Corvino, and I'm thinking the fifth time's the charm.
The impulse behind the cafe/restaurant/wine bar/whatever has always been the same: casual, wine-worthy food and good times. Corvino follows in that tradition.
The setting has never been the problem. When the Federal Hill Hospitality Group took the space over, no major changes were made in the decor. There's a new mural on the wall across from the bar, and the lights have been dimmed to good effect. The place seems somehow warmer and cozier; and even without the promised rugs, which hadn't shown up by the time of my visit, the noise level isn't bad.
The location now seems like more of a convivial wine bar and less of a restaurant. I don't mean food isn't important here. The executive chef is Christopher Paternotte, formerly of Vin in Towson. He's worked to create a menu of small plates (many of which can also be had as "family platters" to share) that pretty much works on every level. My only general complaint is that it's too meat- and cheese-heavy, but that may change when the season does.
I do have one more specific complaint, which I might as well get over with. It's the antipasti platter, which at $20 is expensive for what it is, compared to the small plates. The handsome wooden board arrived with some fine olives and fresh ricotta, but the rest was skimpy: three delicate slices of Italian cured meats; a small slice of a buttery sheep's milk cheese; and a hard-boiled egg half that was cut in four pieces. The promised boquerones, fresh anchovies, were nowhere in sight. Way too many pickled peppers had been added to flesh the board out.
You don't really need an antipasto. The bread comes with a "tapenade" made with olives, eggplant, asparagus and potatoes. And even when Corvino is busy, as it was the night we were there, the kitchen turns out the small plates in a timely fashion. Two or three a person will be more than enough.
There are also panini if small plates aren't your thing, and if the hot, rich pizze panino (Italian meats, cheese and a delicate tomato sauce) is any indication, they are well worth ordering.
