April 30, 2009|By Rob Kasper

The Artful Gourmet Bistro

9433 Common Brook Road, Owings Mills, 410-356-0363. Open 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday, noon-10:30 p.m. Saturday, 4 p.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.

The "build" of a good sandwich is an art. You start with the proper foundation of bread then adroitly layer ingredients, creating an item that is pleasing to both the eye and the palate.

The Remington from the carryout section of the Artful Gourmet in Owings Mills is a prime example of sandwich art. This bistro, tucked in a corner of the Brookside Commons shops, has an extensive carryout menu and a counter at the rear of the restaurant to accommodate customers who grab their food and go. The sandwiches and entrees are named in honor of artists.

A good sandwich starts with bread, and the sourdough of the Remington sandwich ($9.25) was toasty and sporting the distinctive marks of time spent in a panini press. The mayonnaise, made on the premises, added a flavorful touch of sun-dried tomatoes. A layer of spinach added color and tang, and the cheese, a serving of Gouda, was creamy. All worked to highlight the main ingredient, turkey breast roasted in-house. The texture of the sandwich, crusty on the outside, rich and smooth in the middle, was masterful.

The house salad, chopped and topped with a tangy gorgonzola vinaigrette, was also well done. It accompanied the sandwich and is also sold as a leafy side dish: $4 for a small, $7 for a large.

The build of another sandwich, the $12 Angelico, was disappointing. It consisted of pan-seared tuna, layered with sliced cucumber, wasabi and pickled ginger on focaccia bread. The tuna was cooked to perfection - crispy on the edges, tender in the middle. But the other ingredients, especially the ginger and the focaccia, got in the way of the tuna's flavor. Sometimes, in a painting and a sandwich, less is more.

Sweet potato fries, a dish for which the Artful Gourmet is known, accompanied the sandwich. They cost an extra 95 cents but were worth it.

I ordered a brownie, but somehow it failed to make it into my sack.

best bite

The Remington sandwich, $9.25

Also tasted: : House salad, $4 small, $7 large; the Angelico sandwich, $12; sweet potato fries, 95 cents as a side dish.

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