In class the other day at MICA, Ryan outlined four elements that she thinks make a successful taco. "The filling must be spot-on, be correctly cooked and nicely seasoned," she said. "The tortilla should be fresh, and the picante sauce, red or green, must be paired with the filling."
Finally, toppings matter, she said. "The chopped radishes and lime wedges served at Yellow Dog Tavern and Arizona and the fresh cheese at Blue Agave really make a difference," she said.
The taco eaters experienced some of the difficulties of compiling a food guide. A few of the establishments closed after the students had visited them. Some changed their taco offerings, requiring - for instance - the student who had drawn an illustration of the grilled rockfish taco at the Austin Grill to add an illustration of the grilled red snapper taco, the new fish taco.
Then there was the problem of finding willing companions to venture to the taco emporiums. "It was easy the first time," Ryan said. "But when you ask them the second or third time, it was a definite no."
Angela Hogarty, a senior from Baltimore who had snagged a friend for two visits to Nacho Mama's, ran out of luck when she tried for a third trip. The friend, she said, sent her a text message: "No More Taco Adventures!"
Maggie Cerveny, a junior from Long Island, N.Y., is a vegetarian. So, when she visited the taco truck on South Broadway, she brought along her boyfriend to sample the tongue taco. He loved the lengua taco, while she was content to fashion a miniature model of the truck for the class project.
In its written work, the class was careful to list only the best taco at each spot. The students did not do a comparative ranking of restaurant tacos. But some eaters were willing to say they did find tacos that were worth a second visit.
Rosemary Davis, a senior from St. Louis, said the tacos at El Taquito Mexicano on Eastern Avenue won her over.
And when I pressed Ryan, asking her if she were to go to the gallows tomorrow which tacos she would request as her final meal, she gave a dual response.
"I would probably put my fate in the hands of the chef at Arcos," she said mentioning its tilapia taco and its grilled pork-and-pineapple taco.
"Then, for a second stop, I would get the bean-and-cheese taco at El Taquito. It is pure comfort food," she said.
So, a few hours after class was dismissed, I headed to Arcos and El Taquito and grabbed the recommended tacos.
The pork taco, with cubes of flavored meat mixed with bits of pineapple, was terrific, as was the Arcos fish taco. The bean-and-cheese offering from El Taquito was soothing.
Those two spots made my personal taco map.
