I asked Jim Oboyski, the regional manager of the just-opened Sullivan's Steakhouse (1 E. Pratt St., 410-962-5503), why on earth he thought another upscale chain steakhouse could survive downtown with the competition from Morton's, Shula's, two Ruth's Chris Steakhouses, Fleming's and the Capital Grille. The heart of Sullivan's menu is steaks, chops and some seafood priced from $28 to $41, which includes the signature bone-in 20-ounce Kansas City strip for $38.
Oboyski must have been asked the question before, because without skipping a beat he said, "The vibrancy of the restaurant and the value."
"There's a fun feeling" to the restaurant, he added, pointing out that the bar is a destination in itself with its own menu, and not just a place to wait for a table. On Thursdays, $5 glasses of wine and martinis are offered in the bar, along with half-off bar entrees.
FOR THE RECORD - In yesterday's Table Talk column, the Sunday hours for Sullivan's Steakhouse were incorrect. The restaurant is open from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays.
The Sun regrets the errors.
I asked for details on value in the main dining room. Oboyski pointed to the $29 early-bird menu offered every night before 6 (salad, entree and dessert). There's also a Contenders Menu, priced from $18 to $25, which consists of five entrees (blue-cheese meatloaf, roast chicken, scampi, pork shank and a strip steak).
Unlike most upscale steakhouses, which have a completely a la carte menu, Sullivan's does give you an iceberg wedge with blue-cheese dressing and diced tomatoes with your meat.
This is the 19th location for the Dallas-based chain. Oboyski described the atmosphere as a 1940s Chicago steakhouse with contemporary fixtures. The walls are mahogany, and the main dining room has a luxurious carpet, booths and tables for two or more. Some 230 people can be seated in the main dining room and the "library," and there are five banquet rooms. When the weather gets better, you'll be able to eat outdoors on the patio.
Sullivan's wine list consists of 450 bottles and 30 selections by the glass, with most of the bottles in the $40 to $60 range.
Oh yes, and there's valet parking for $6.
Sullivan's is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and for dinner from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday. It's open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.
Trying things out If you stop by the location where Juniors Wine Bar was, 1117 S. Charles St. in Federal Hill, you'll see the sign is gone. Walk in and you'll find that the restaurant is being run as a test kitchen by the new chef, Christopher Paternotte, formerly of Vin in Towson.
