I'm always surprised that Baltimore County has so many chains and doesn't have more nice local restaurants - the kind that seem to pop up every other week in Baltimore City. If this bothers you, too, you'll be happy that Restaurant Sabor is now open in the Lutherville/Timonium area.
You may not know the owner and chef by name; but if you eat out a lot, you've probably tasted Rodolfo ("Roddy") Domacasse's good cooking at Brasserie Tatin, Due or Rudys' 2900 (all three now closed); Linwood's; Gertrude's at the BMA; or Donna's.
Now Domacasse, a native of Puerto Rico, has his own kitchen to do with as he wishes. He's created a menu for Sabor that's a hodgepodge, but in a good way. The influences range from French to South American. Many of the dishes are on trend, and the ingredients for the most part are very seasonal.
The daily specials show the range of Domacasse's cuisine, starting with venison with chestnut foie gras mousse (Monday) and ending with Puerto Rican lasagna (Sunday).
If you're wondering how any new restaurant will survive in this economy, Sabor has three things going for it.
First, and most important, the food is really good.
Second, given the quality of the food, prices are reasonable. Almost all the entrees are under $25. If that's too much for you, there are a couple of gourmet sandwiches and some dinner salads that are less. You also have the option of some of the appetizer/small plates: The three delicious sliders, for instance - one with blue cheese, one with fried onions seasoned with balsamic vinegar, and one plain - will make a light meal.
Third, Sabor is BYOB, at least until it gets a liquor license. These days that's not the liability it once was; bringing your own means the check will be less. There's a $5 corkage fee per table, not bottle.
Restaurant Sabor's biggest drawback is the atmosphere, which is decidedly untrendy; but that hasn't hurt, say, Christopher Daniel nearby. It's comfortable enough, with padded chairs, banquettes and lots of fabric, which cuts down on noise. Wood paneling and furniture add warmth. The problem is the large display kitchen, with its too-bright fluorescent light. It dominates the dining room and keeps the restaurant from being cozy.
Still, once you taste Domacasse's fried oysters with a touch of housemade barbecue sauce, you'll forget about the fluorescent lights. The oysters melt on the tongue. Everything, by the way, is housemade, including the excellent, freshly baked focaccia.
