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Marie Louise Bistro fits nicely in Mount Vernon

restaurantreview

January 25, 2009|By Elizabeth Large , elizabeth.large@baltsun.com

The bistro has quite a bit of seafood, including a sauteed sole fillet with a thin, golden crust that was overcooked but had such a flavorful sauce of tomatoes, capers and wine that it almost didn't matter.

Marie Louise Bistro features a decent, mostly European wine list, moderately priced to match the moderately priced food. It even has three house wines, which I haven't seen in a while, for $21 a bottle or $5.50 a glass (a French sauvignon blanc and merlot, and a California chardonnay).

After dinner, the server will bring around a tray of French pastries. I'm sure the selection changes, but if the "strawberry shortcake" is on the tray, don't hesitate to order it. It bears little resemblance to American shortcake, but is a fabulous combination of spongecake, cream and fruit with fondant on top. A chocolate purse filled with mousse and chocolate cake paled in comparison, and the mille-feuille was a wannabe, although it would have been wonderful with some of that fondant on top.

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All in all, the whole experience was much better than I could have hoped for, given the lack of buzz. Marie Louise Bistro is a restaurant that could do very well in this economy - as soon as more customers find out about it.

marie louise bistro

Address: 904 N. Charles St., Mount Vernon

Hours: Open daily for continental breakfast, lunch and dinner

Prices: Appetizers, $6.95-$7.95; entrees, $9.95-$20.95

Contact: 410-385-9946

Food: *** ( 3 STARS)

Service: *** ( 3 STARS)

Atmosphere: ** 1/2 ( 2 1/2 STARS)

[Outstanding: **** Good: *** Fair or uneven: ** Poor: *]

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