Worth the wait

1/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste (divided use)

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with their juice

2 (15.5-ounce) cans dark-red kidney beans, drained and rinsed

1 (28-ounce) can tomato puree

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 to 4 teaspoons minced chipotle chile in adobo sauce (see note)

2 pounds 85 percent lean ground beef

ground black pepper

2 limes, cut into wedges

Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onions, garlic, chili powder, tomato paste, cumin, red-pepper flakes and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are softened and lightly browned, 10 to 12 minutes.

Stir in the diced tomatoes with their juice, scraping up any browned bits. Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker and stir in the beans, tomato puree, soy sauce, oregano, sugar and chipotle until evenly combined.

Season the meat with salt and pepper and stir it into the slow cooker, breaking up any larger pieces. Cover and cook, either on low or high, until the meat is tender and the chili flavorful, 8 to 9 hours on low, 5 to 6 hours on high.

Let the chili settle for 5 minutes, then gently tilt the slow cooker, and, using a large spoon, remove as much fat as possible from the surface. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve with the lime wedges.

Note: For milder chili, use the smaller amount of chipotle chiles; for spicy, use the full 4 teaspoons.

From "The Best Slow and Easy Recipes," by the editors of "Cook's Illustrated"

Per serving (based on 10 servings):: 331 calories, 24 grams protein, 13 grams fat, 4 grams saturated fat, 31 grams carbohydrate, 9 grams fiber, 54 milligrams cholesterol, 1,248 milligrams sodium