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Holiday beers: something to celebrate

By ROB KASPER , rob.kasper@baltsun.com|November 26, 2008

Now that Thanksgiving is upon us, it is OK to drink holiday beers.

I have a confession: Some of us have already started. A little over a week ago, in a move that some might equate with opening the presents before Christmas, I was among a panel of tasters who gathered in a back room at the Wine Source in Hampden, popped the tops off 60 bottled winter beers and "peeked" at what the next weeks of beer drinking have to offer.

The short answer is a lot of good stuff. The Belgians work wonders with sugar and yeasts in their beers. The Americans, an ever inventive lot, delight us with their bigger but balanced brews. And the English deliver toasted and roasted delights.


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Whether these beers are called "winter warmers," holiday beers or Christmas beers, traditionally they have something extra - an additional ingredient or an extra helping of malt - that the brewers put in the mix. This year, for instance, several domestic beers have vanilla flavors in them.

The 60 bottles of beer, cloaked in brown bags to hide their labels, were divided among three categories: Belgium, Domestic and English. A panel of 12 tasters - media types and beverage professionals - sipped, scribbled and picked favorites.

Our winners were both predictable and surprising. Two of the six top domestic beers - Clipper City Winter Storm and Clay Pipe Pursuit of Happiness Winter Warmer - were locals, brewed in Maryland. They also were winners in last year's tasting. So, even though panel members did not know the names of the beers until after the conclusion of the tasting, our taste buds could, I guess, be accused of being "homers."

But we also liked Redhook Winterhook Ale, a winter beer from a Seattle brewery that is in partnership with Anheuser-Busch, a big brewery scoffed at by some craft beer drinkers. We didn't concern ourselves with the corporate connections of what was in each glass; we simply rated how it tasted.

Among the English beers, the top finisher was Ridgeway Lump of Coal, another repeat winner from last year's tasting. We might be wrong, but we are consistent.

The big surprise was in the Belgium category. Our top finisher, Klein Duimpje Kerstbier, came from the Netherlands, not exactly Belgium. But I bet you can see Belgium from the Netherlands. The beer had flavors of raisins, dark sugar and, according to one panelist, Earl Grey tea. It was terrific. Later, I saw the label. It had an illustration of two Santas dancing a jig. That is the effect these beers are supposed to have, filling us with winter joy.

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