Takeout

TAKEOUT

November 20, 2008|By Rob Kasper

Roy's Kwik Korner

1002 S. Crain Highway, Glen Burnie; 410-768-3369

Open 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursday-Friday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday

Tucked on a corner between busy stretches of Quarterfield Road and Crain Highway, Roy's is a spot for eaters on the move. Motorists roll in, grab their grub and roll on.

The sweet perfume of steamed seafood washed over me when I walked in the door. By the time I got to the "order here" sign, I was craving crab soup. I ordered two bowls, one red and one white.

The red Maryland crab soup at $3.50 for 8 ounces was the real deal. Not only was it loaded with vegetables, including corn, tomatoes and lima beans, it also had chunks of ham. In addition, it had more crab swimming in it than parts of the Chesapeake Bay. As I lifted up a spoonful of this soup, a piece of claw meat meandered underneath my spoon. I snagged it on the next go-round.

The cream of crab soup, at $4.50 for 8 ounces, was exceptionally creamy. It was so thick my spoon could almost stand up in the soup. It was too creamy for me, an admission I never thought I would make.

Over the years, these two soups have repeatedly won the crab soup competition at the former Maryland Seafood Festival, said Mike Wagner, a member of the family that operates Roy's.

Roy's, which started off in 1979 as a grocery store, calls itself the home of the baseball crab cake. I ordered the smaller, $8.95 crab cake. It was firm, moist, but somewhat mildly spiced. At 4 inches in diameter, it was almost an inch wider than a regulation baseball. I guess changing its slogan to "home of the crab cake 1 inch wider than a regulation baseball" doesn't have much zing.

As I stood at a shoulder-height counter composing my order, I came face to face with $2 slices of homemade cake. This was a temptation few could resist. I was taken with the looks of a pineapple upside down cake, but in the end I was won over by the slice of devil's food. The dark cake and mocha frosting were done well.

Service was competent, friendly and speedy. In about five minutes I was in, out and back on the road thinking about the slice of upside down cake I had left behind.

roy's kwik korner

Best bite: Maryland crab soup, $3.50 for 8 ounces

Also tasted: Cream of crab soup, $4.50 for 8 ounces; "baseball" crab cake, $8.95; devil's food cake, $2 a slice

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