Easy does it

scallops grenobloise

(serves 4 as a main course)

2 slices white bread

2 1/2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil (divided use)

1 lemon

1 pound large scallops (about 16), rinsed under cold water to remove any sand

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons drained capers

6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup diced ( 1/2 -inch) white mushrooms (about 3)

1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the bread into 1/2 -inch dice and toss the bread with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Spread the pieces on a cookie sheet and bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or until browned. Set aside.

Peel the lemon, removing the skin and the white pith underneath. Cut between the membranes to remove totally clean segments of lemon flesh. Cut into 1/2 -inch pieces until you have about 2 tablespoons diced lemon flesh.

Remove any adductor muscles still attached to the scallops. Sprinkle scallops with the salt, pepper and the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil.

Heat a large, nonstick skillet over high heat until very hot, then add the scallops. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for about 2 minutes on each side. They should be nicely browned. Arrange 4 scallops on each of 4 serving plates and sprinkle on the lemon pieces, capers and bread cubes.

Heat the butter in a small skillet and add the mushrooms. Cook for 2 to 4 minutes, or until the butter browns lightly (this is called noisette butter). Add the vinegar. Spoon the sauce over the scallops, sprinkle the parsley on top and serve.

From "More Fast Food My Way," by Jacques Pepin

Per serving: : 455 calories, 38 grams protein, 28 grams fat, 12 grams saturated fat, 15 grams carbohydrate, 1 gram fiber, 133 milligrams cholesterol, 925 milligrams sodium

cheat's pappardelle with slow-braised leeks and crispy porcini pangrattato

(serves 4 to 6)

5 big leeks, outer leaves trimmed back, washed

olive oil (about 1 tablespoon)

3 good knobs of butter (about 3 tablespoons)

3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely sliced

a few sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves picked

a small wineglass of white wine (about 1/2 cup)

freshly ground black pepper

1 pint good-quality vegetable or chicken stock

12 slices of Parma ham

two 8-ounce packages fresh lasagna sheets

flour, for dusting