Big reasons to try little ships

The tall-ship sails make converts of those who wouldn't dream of taking a cruise

After experiencing the camaraderie that comes with rolling over the sea for a week with 200 strangers, I can see why.

if you go

The cruise

The Royal Clipper, operated by Star Clippers, offers its six-day, seven-night Caribbean Windward Islands cruise every other week, beginning Nov. 15, through April 4, and again in November 2009. The cruise begins and ends in Barbados and calls in St. Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, St. Kitts, Iles des Saintes and Martinique.

The passengers

Capacity is 227 passengers, plus 106 crew. There were 223 in my group and, best I could tell, only two of us were traveling solo. Probably half of my shipmates were 60 or older and only a half-dozen were under the age of 20. A few excursions were teen-friendly - basic snorkeling tours and zip lining, for example - but younger kids are likely to be bored. Folks who have serious mobility issues should know that there are no elevators on board, and it tends to get rocky at night.

The ship

Size The Royal Clipper is 439 feet long and 54 feet wide. It's decorated in an Edwardian style - lots of gilded swirliness everywhere - and is regal looking, but the vibe is decidedly easygoing. Also, it rocks. A lot. Take Dramamine, magnetic seasickness bracelets or both.

Cabins The rooms are well-appointed with brass and mahogany details, oil paintings of famous clipper ships and surprisingly decent closet space. All cabins come standard with hair dryers, safes, TVs and DVD players; all bathrooms (except mine, apparently) are lined with marble. Rooms are small, but not claustrophobic. Six rooms are on the ship's interior; all others have at least one porthole or window.

Amenities There are three "swimming" pools, the largest of which could comfortably accommodate 20 people sitting shoulder to shoulder, if it came to that. There's a spa and fitness room with a few strength-training machines and two no-frills treadmills.

Activities and excursions

For no fee, passengers can borrow snorkeling equipment for the week, but it's on a first-come, first-served basis. The only other on-board activity seemed to be mast-climbing, which was, unfortunately, canceled, because of rough swells. Onshore excursions include rainforest zip-lining and seaside horseback riding. Most of my shipmates went on at least one excursion during the weeklong cruise, but most folks were content with lounging on obscure little beaches or strolling through port towns.

Dining

The highlight, I'm told, is a beach-side barbecue on Antigua, but ours was canceled because of poor weather. Dinner is typically 7:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. with no assigned times, but everyone eats early. Though there's no assigned seating, people tend to sit at the same tables night after night. Dress was fairly casual - sundresses or skirts for women, casual slacks and no ties for men - even on the night of the Captain's Dinner. A few entrees were excellent; most were average or slightly above. The wine list is international and all over the map as far as pricing is concerned, so watch those euros.

Cost

From $2,100 per person (including port fees) for the smallest shared cabin; average $2,570 for roomier accommodations. Alcoholic beverages are extra, and a no-tipping policy is in place.

Information

800-442 0551; starclippers.com

Lauren Viera