And yes, the man and woman on the street are remarkably helpful, but the nation's human-rights record makes it among the poorest global neighbors.
And for all of the talk of having an "open" Olympics, reporters have rolled into town and discovered anything but.
For starters, there are travel limitations and interview restrictions from Tiananmen to Tibet. The Wikipedia page for the 1989 protests at Tiananmen Square is unavailable. Anything to do with freeing Tibet or the Falun Gong spiritual movement is also strictly off-limits online.
Two U.S. citizens were among a small group arrested yesterday for unfurling a banner supporting Tibet near the Bird's Nest stadium. And this week, the Chinese government decided Joey Cheek, an American speedskating gold medalist, could not enter the country. Cheek has been an outspoken critic of China's continued involvement and silent support in Darfur, and the Chinese embassy revoked his visa.
Walking around Beijing, if you can manage to see through the thick, milky haze of polluted air - don't worry, we're told the air is safe and conditions couldn't be better! - one barely takes two steps without bumping into an Olympic volunteer. They are all kind, they all offer help and they all walk with you a couple of steps before passing you off like the Olympic torch itself to another smiling volunteer.
On the surface, it's incredible courtesy. A layer deeper, it's another vehicle of control, guiding each visitor down a path with no room for detour.
"Nobody's really calculating how many medals we're going to win," an Olympic official told me. "We're more concerned about having all of the international athletes and visitors coming to Beijing and feeling at home. We're more concerned with where to take them for dinner, where to take them for a tour site visit or where to take them for shopping."
Shopping? Who exactly is buying that?
Not by accident, these Games were strategically designed to announce China's arrival on the world stage. By some twisted logic, connecting dots that are miles apart, the nation's success athletically is presumed to reflect its dominance politically and economically.
The United States has taken home more medals than any other nation at the past three Summer Games. Since China returned to Olympic competition 24 years ago, it has seen its medal total slowly rise, from 32 in 1984 to 63 in 2004.
The United States had 102 medals four years ago, a 39-medal advantage over China. We're all about to see just how quickly the Chinese have been able to close that gap.
In China, there always seems to be something on the surface covering up a buried truth. The officials contend the medal margin is too big, which is all I need to hear to think otherwise.
All the evidence I need, in fact, is back home, hanging right on my wall.
rick.maese@baltsun.com
