Murray is a Foreign Service officer in the State Department economic section. On weekends, he takes his three children on field trips into the city to explore Chinese culture. It has become tougher. Traditional hutongs in Houhai now face a strip of bars and clubs, their neon signs advertising fun from a far-away world. Sex and the City, one is called.
Not far away, last week's favorite restaurant is this week's vacant building.
"The Olympics are almost a metaphor," Murray says, "for what Beijing and what China is trying to do, in terms of its own economic rising, trying to become more economically powerful on the world stage. I think most people would agree the Olympics are China's coming-out party and Beijing's coming-out party."
