Even better was the double rib pork chop, almost fork tender and slightly pink, with a crust of colored peppercorns that held in the juices. A cloud of mashed potatoes floated nearby, and a little apple slaw rounded out a very fine plate.
But seafood may be the best choice after all. It would be hard to fault the mahi mahi, a special that night, served in a fiery Thai coconut milk sauce, with rice and bok choy. Or the delicate, beautiful cioppino, with shrimp, scallops, clams, calamari and whatever fish is freshest delicately swimming in a saffron-tinged broth with chopped fresh tomatoes.
So why doesn't Fin's food get four stars? I'm afraid our desserts didn't reach the heights of the rest of our meal. The specialty is strawberry shortcake made with grilled pound cake, but the grill marks gave the dessert a faint charred flavor. Bring me instead just the strawberries soaked in balsamic vinegar (yum) with vanilla ice cream and whipped mascarpone.
The white-chocolate banana bread pudding was oddly flavorless and a bit dry, and the creme anglaise was so discreetly applied as to be almost nonexistent. Only the coffee-toffee cheesecake with caramel sauce lived up to its advance billing.
I don't get the feeling that wine is a priority at Fin, at least not yet, but the list is respectable and pretty reasonable; and the selection by the glass is good.
If you know Fin's space, you know it's the basement dining room of the Admiral Fell Inn and has "historic" fieldstone walls, which no one wants to cover up. There's only so much you can do with these two givens. Fin has done its best, although carpeting would be nice for the noise. The look is contemporary but muted, with lots of dark blue and comfortably spaced tables. The Big Band music makes you think of ordering a martini. My big complaint was the cold. Refrigerator cold. I sympathized with the little girl near us who said nothing to her parents through the whole meal that I could hear except, "I'm very tired, and I'm very cold."
This was one of the best meals I've had in a while, and Fin is a great addition to Fells Point. But don't forget the bottom line: If this sounds like a restaurant you want to try, go on an off day at an off hour, or don't say I didn't warn you.
elizabeth.large@baltsun.com
Fin Steak & Seafood
Address:: 888 S. Broadway, Fells Point
Hours:: Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday
Prices:: Appetizers, : $6-$11; entrees, : $15-$36
Call:: 410-522-2195, fin-restaurant.com
Outstanding: **** Good: *** Fair or uneven: ** Poor *
Food*** 1/2 (3 1/2 stars)
Service** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)
Atmosphere** 1/2 (2 1/2 stars)
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Check out restaurant critic Elizabeth Large's daily blog (baltimore sun.com/diningatlarge) for restaurant news and notes and reader feedback. Don't miss Top 10 Tuesdays.
