My rule of thumb in ordering at the new Riptide by the Bay in Fells Point is this: If it goes with beer, go for it.
That means, for instance, you will be perfectly happy with the steamed crabs. They are homegrown, cooked to order with a seasoning mix that involves a lot of Old Bay but also some other ingredients like extra red pepper. Ours were meaty and not waterlogged.
Come to think of it, Riptide may be Fells Point's only crab house. Obrycki's and Mo's are nearby, but they aren't in Fells Point proper. Not only that, the place has more atmosphere than you might expect in a crab house. What was once a sailors' bar has been renovated head to toe, with lots of shiny wood, booths, ceiling fans and walls painted an attractive green. The alley along the side has been turned into a covered "breezeway," so you can get the effect of eating outside without worrying about the elements. (Unfortunately, there's also a too-loud TV out there.)
Oddly, I called to find out about the place just after Riptide opened, and no one mentioned that it would sell steamed crabs. But not only are there steamed crabs, there's corn steamed in its husk with more Old Bay. Someone in the steam room knows not to overcook corn on the cob, and it tastes local.
If you don't feel like picking crabs, Riptide's signature dish is something called the High Tide. This is a crab cake made from three different grades of crab meat, including some mighty fine lumps, on a big, soft roll with a sauce labeled "sweet remoulade" (think Russian dressing), lettuce, tomato and smoky bacon. It's a big, squishy, flavorful handful and well worth ordering.
It goes with beer, too.
Riptide's version of surf and turf was a special that evening: a half-rack of meaty spareribs with a big bowl of spicy steamed shrimp ready for peeling. (This was one of those specials where you start off by asking for extra napkins, no matter how many the server brings.) I'm not going to say Riptide is a place you'd come to for the barbecue, but the ribs were perfectly respectable, even though the sauce tasted store-bought.
But when we veered away from the "if it goes with beer" rule, we got into trouble. That's in spite of the fact that Riptide serves several drinkable wines by the glass in handsome stemware. (The wine list is only wines by the glass, though the restaurant will sell you a bottle if you insist.)
