Tempting turnovers

These appetizers deliver surprising twists

July 02, 2008|By Denise Martin and Donna Deane | Denise Martin and Donna Deane,LOS ANGELES TIMES

A let's-get-a-few-friends-together soiree begs for party snacks with a few surprise ingredients - bite-size turnovers that have personality and that go down perfectly with either a glass of crisp, cool white wine or a light summer ale.

These are life-of-the-party appetizers. Green and leafy watercress puts a peppery twist on traditional spanakopita, and fresh herbs and wild mushrooms class up mini calzones with truffle cheese. Ripe plantains used as the "dough" for festive vegetarian empanadas are a sweet-savory indulgence, light enough for a summer evening.

Ditch the flour and make empanada dough from a combination of plantains and bananas. Roast the plantains until they literally ooze from their skins, then blend them with super-ripe bananas and salt. A tortilla press - inexpensive and readily available at most Latino markets - and two sheets of plastic wrap serve best to flatten balls of the sticky dough into round discs ready for stuffing, but a heavy-bottom skillet can substitute for the press.

Toss together green onions, roasted chiles, cheese and refried beans and spoon a little onto each empanada, then carefully fold the dough into half-moon shapes. Pan-fry them quickly in hot oil until golden brown on the outside. Tthe result is light and crisp on the outside, warm and tender on the inside. Serve them immediately with chilled chipotle-inflected creme fraiche.

Herb and mushroom bliss: Mounds of fresh herbs are overflowing at markets, so it's almost a given to throw a handful into a calzone dough. Sprinkle in some thyme and make way for the guests who will follow the crisp aroma into the kitchen.

For the filling, a mix of wild mushrooms - like oyster, shiitake and creminis - pairs beautifully with the thyme. Add a bit of pancetta and truffle cheese (truffle cheese is easier to find than truffles). Grind some black pepper onto the thyme-flecked calzones and watch them puff up into golden morsels, warm and deliciously gooey in the middle.

Presto pesto: Watercress is the base for a pesto that gets tucked into spanakopita-style turnovers. We keep the feta cheese, the tang of which goes well with the watercress pesto (made with the addition of garlic and almonds) and add lemon-garlic chicken. The marinated chicken can be grilled ahead of time and stored in the fridge.

The sheets of phyllo dough traditionally used for spanakopita can be found at most grocery stores and Greek markets. (Keep them covered with damp paper towels and handle delicately.)

Lay one sheet on a clean surface and brush lightly with melted butter. Add two more sheets brushed with butter. Cut the dough crosswise into eight strips, then spoon a little chicken, pesto and feta on one end before folding into triangles.

In less than 20 minutes, the lightly golden turnovers emerge sharp and rich.

Denise Martin and Donna Deane wrote this story for the Los Angeles Times.

Online

For recipes for Plantain Empanadas with Chipotle Crema and Chicken and Watercress Pesto Turnovers, visit baltimoresun.com/taste

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