On my last day here, I went down to Soufriere Bay off Scotts Head for one last chance to swim in that amazingly warm water. As soon as I waded out to my waist, some kind of giant, beautiful, aqua-colored ray floated by, and a million little yellow and black fish fluttered around my bare feet.
Afterward, bumping along that twisty, windy road one last time for the 2 1/2 -hour trek up the side of the island to the airport, I found driving to be the easy part.
The hard part? Leaving.
Lauren Viera writes for the Chicago Tribune.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Dominica is in the center of the Lesser Antilles in the West Indies, between the islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe. Dominica has two (very) small airports: Melville Hall Airport in the northeast, about 90 minutes from the capital of Roseau, and Canefield Airport in the southwest, just north of Roseau. Major airlines fly to and from Melville Hall but only during daylight hours, as the airfield has no lights.
GETTING AROUND
Dominica is rugged, rough and rainy. Much of it is walkable - and hikeable - but getting from place to place requires ground transportation. Driving on the island isn't easy, but it also isn't impossible. If you rent a car, opt for a Jeep or similar all-terrain vehicle. Taxis are available for hire, and there is a bus system.
STAYING THERE
There are no commercial hotel chains on the island. Most inns and resorts (none of which resembles stereotypical Caribbean resorts) offer meal and excursion packages, since cross-island transportation is limited. Because Roseau and most adventure destinations are on the southern half of the island, staying in the south is preferable.
Jungle Bay Resort and Spa (767-446-1789; junglebaydominica.com), off Pointe Mulatre Bay on the southeast side, is a phenomenal eco-friendly resort consisting of modern, treehouse-like cottages with quaint outdoor showers, comfortable beds and spectacular ocean or jungle views. Regular rates, with breakfast included, start at $169 per night. Plan to get a workout during your stay: Most cottages are about 100 steps above ground.
A lovely, smaller alternative is Zandolli Inn (767-446-3161; zandoli.com), near Grand Bay. There are five rooms (starting at $135/night), and breakfast and dinner are optional. The inn's best feature is its location overlooking the bay: There's a private trail down to a natural pile of huge, smooth boulders that slip into the ocean - the perfect launching pad for swimming and snorkeling.
WHAT TO DO
Hiking, snorkeling, diving, kayaking and swimming are all popular here; sunbathing isn't. Well-known hikes include Trafalgar Falls, Emerald Pool, Victoria Falls and, for more experienced hikers, Boiling Lake. The most popular snorkeling and diving spots are at Champagne near Soufriere Bay. Kayaking is common in the many bays surrounding the island.
MORE INFORMATION
Official Dominica tourism information: 866-522-4057;
dominica.dm
[Lauren Viera]
