Saute has imaginative food, an identity crisis

Restaurant Review

June 15, 2008|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Food **1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere *** (3 stars)

Saute, a fancy new bar-restaurant, opened in March where the Duck Inn was in Canton. It generated a lot of buzz, and it's the kind of place I would normally review a month or so after it opened. But, like Three... near Patterson Park, there was considerable turmoil in the kitchen after the first few weeks. The executive chef, Cyrus Keefer, left and was replaced by Mark Suliga, who had been at Cosmopolitan and Dooby's, and then Brian Mathias, formerly at Hampton's, Joy America and Brasserie Tatin.

I assumed the menu would have gone from being overly ambitious to upscale bar food from what I had been told about the reason for the change (that the dinner menu was too complicated, given how busy the place was at lunchtime, which left the kitchen little time to prepare in advance for Keefer's complicated entrees).


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