Honey's not all there is at Meli

Restaurant Review

May 18, 2008|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Food *** (3 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere *** (3 stars)

Naming your restaurant after one ingredient can be a dangerous thing. As appealing as it might seem, it does limit the chef unless the ingredient is something commonly used in both sweet and savory dishes, such as, say, butter.

Vasilios Keramidas and the Kali's Restaurant Group decided to take the chance. But when they opened their patisserie and bistro to complement their fine dining and midprice options (Kali's Court and Mezze), they did something wise: They gave the business a Greek name. Meli means "honey," but the name doesn't seem like such a commitment when it's not in English. If executive chef Rashad Edwards decides he doesn't want to use honey in a certain dish, I don't think anyone really notices.

Poor:]

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