Not very long ago, it seemed that Bobby Prigel's northern Baltimore County dairy farm was about to go out of business.
Bellevale Farm, which has been run by four generations of Prigels, couldn't compete with large-scale operations that keep costs low by milking thousands of cows each day.
But then Prigel tried a different approach - he returned to farming methods more common in his great-grandfather's day than in his father's. He allowed his cows to graze freely in pastures and adopted organic practices. The cows grew healthier, sales increased and now Prigel is about to open a dairy store on his Long Green farm to sell homemade yogurt, ice cream and cheese.
Like many other small farmers in Maryland, Prigel, 46, attributes his success to the growing demand for locally produced, natural foods.
"We establish a relationship with our customers," he says. "You can come and see that we are doing what we are supposed to do. I don't think I'd be in business if it weren't for the local food movement."
Spurred by environmental concerns, fears of contamination and a desire to know more about the origins of their meals, more consumers are choosing food grown or raised close to home. Locavores, as they are called, say local produce contains more nutrients than produce that is picked early and shipped long distances. And, perhaps most important, local food tastes better, they say.
For farmers, the locavore movement has brought hope that small family farms can persist, or even thrive, in the 21st century.
"By buying this food, you're supporting these farms and keeping farms in your community," says Michael Pollan, who has written several books, including The Omnivore's Dilemma, about the food industry. "It's a way to try to check sprawl. And what farmers give to a community is quite extraordinary."
The demand for local produce is growing in Maryland, says Mark Powell, director of marketing for the state department of agriculture. More than three-quarters of residents prefer to buy fruits and vegetables grown in Maryland, and more than 40 percent will pay a premium for local products, according to a recent survey by the Schaefer Center for Public Policy at the University of Baltimore.
