Woodberry Kitchen is `green,' with good food

Restaurant review

January 06, 2008|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Food *** (3 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere ***1/2 (3 1/2stars)

The new Woodberry Kitchen in the Clipper Mill complex is based on a principle Californians discovered long ago: A restaurant can be "green" and also indulge its customers. Even if your building materials are recycled and your food mostly locally produced and organic, you can still serve steaks, flourless chocolate cake and martinis.

Restaurateur Spike Gjerde, his wife, Amy, and their partner, Nelson Carey of Grand Cru wine bar, have taken a 19th-century foundry (or part of it, anyway) in the Clipper Mill complex and had it converted to a handsome restaurant with a lofty ceiling, cracked stone floor, exposed brick walls and floor-to-ceiling windows. Reclaimed materials have been used to good effect, with lots of wood giving what would otherwise be an austere space warmth. Local artisans and craftsmen have contributed their skills as well, and the result is stunning, especially at night when the lighting creates the effect of candlelight.


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