Ze Mean Bean finds its forte with comfortable Slavic fare

Restaurant review

December 16, 2007|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun restaurant critic

Food *** (3 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere *** (3 stars)

Sure, the name is annoying. It's a holdover from years ago when Ze Mean Bean Cafe was a coffeehouse, and it really doesn't give you a good idea of what kind of place it is now. Over time, Ze Mean Bean became more of a restaurant, first serving an odd combination of Eastern European specialties and coffeehouse fare, then getting a serious chef and turning into a restaurant that served down-home Slavic food and fancy fusion cuisine. The current executive chef is Dennis Keruly.

Homemade potato dumplings with Polish kielbasa? Or Chilean sea bass marinated in tomato brine, seared and topped with sage butter stencil and served with candied shallot Israeli couscous, roasted butternut squash compote and balsamic glaze? That's the sort of choice you'll be making; either way you go, I think you'll be pretty happy.

Poor:]

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