In some broiled-chicken restaurants, customers can build up an appetite watching their meal turn gently on a rotisserie before it is brought to their table. No such luck at Pollo Amigo. Here, the magic takes place behind the shiny silver doors of a refrigerator-sized oven.
That's where the chickens are broiled over charcoal. When they emerge, their skins are deep mahogany, and so crisp they almost burst open at the touch of a fork. Hints of garlic, cumin and paprika provide a heady counterpoint to the mild flavor of the juicy meat. And here's more good news: A half a bird, plus two sides, goes for $7.95.
Pollo Amigo, a tiny restaurant wedged into a forlorn-looking corner of a Towson shopping strip, doesn't offer much in the way of atmosphere or amenities, but the food is pretty terrific.
On a simple menu with less than 20 entrees -- about half Peruvian and half Mexican -- the chicken gets top billing. But other dishes are also delicious. On the Mexican side of the menu, the choices include simple burritos, chimichangas and enchiladas. And on the Peruvian side, a grilled steak dish called carne asada ($9.95) is offered alongside pollo saltado ($8.95), a chicken stew with onions and tomatoes.
Another Peruvian choice, Shrimp Entomado ($10.95), which means, as you've probably guessed, shrimp and tomato, combines white wine, garlic, butter and tomato to create a heady base for a stew of fat shrimp, sauteed onions and chunks of red and green pepper. The almost-overwhelmingly rich flavors were countered just slightly by sides of white rice and a ladleful of gently spiced fried beans.
Tacos, available with chicken, beef or tender, fatty slivers of pork ($6.95-$8.95), come rolled in soft, fresh corn tortillas, the warm meat topped with a cold, finely chopped mix of lettuce, onion and tomato.
Our only disappointment, and maybe this was our fault, was that we were not offered a choice of sides. Though yucca, plantains and salad are listed as options on the menu, we didn't notice that until it was too late, and we weren't asked. With every entree, we were given rice and beans.
Pollo Amigo feels like it was set up in a hurry -- the few tables crowded into the small space are shaky and shabby. The restaurant certainly lacks the deep-pocketed "themed" decor that sets the mood at so many dining establishments, but it doesn't need it.
