Lots of rolls

TAKEOUT, REVIEW

November 21, 2007|By ROB KASPER

Dinner rolls come in handy during the Thanksgiving feast. They are discreet pushers, polite ways to position that piece of turkey or that mound of sweet potatoes onto your folk. Moreover, with oven space at a premium on Thanksgiving, the cook is likely to appreciate a guest who arrives bearing an item that does not require time in the oven.

Pretending to be a last-minute invitee to a Thanksgiving feast, I recently took to the streets of Baltimore looking for dinner rolls. I experienced standstill traffic, the frustration of getting lost and the joy of snagging the last bag of rolls on the bakery shelf. All these are familiar parts of the holiday experience. I also discovered that when it comes to dinner rolls, I like mine mild-mannered, not herbed up.

The Breadery

Address --9251 Baltimore National Pike, Ellicott City

Phone --410-203-2221

Hours --7 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. Closed on Thanksgiving Day.

This bakery, which features an array of about 10 types of rolls made with freshly milled flours, is the spot for the eater seeking excitement in dinner rolls. The Garden Herb rolls that I picked, $2.13 for a half-dozen, were made with honey, rye and wheat flours, and were covered with sesame and poppy seeds. Their distinct garlic and onion flavors were too much for me. I guess I should have picked the plain Montana White.

Know of a good carryout? Let us hear about it. Write to rob.kasper@baltsun.com.

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