Grapevine Cafe menu faithful to Greek and American tastes

August 19, 2007|By ELIZABETH LARGE

Greek restaurants haven't fared well north of the city. (Not that there have been that many of them - the now-closed Mykonos is the only one that comes immediately to mind.) So the new Grapevine Cafe is probably wise to offer lots of American dishes along with its Greek food, and to dispense with the traditional blue-and-white decor and the pictures of the Aegean.

In a way that's too bad, because the Greek food is what sets the Grapevine apart from any number of pleasant, unmemorable eating places in the 'burbs where you can sit in a booth and get a decent crab cake dinner. The bottom line is that if you live in the Cockeysville area, you no longer have to go to Greektown to get your fix of dolmades, stuffed grapevine leaves, spanakopita or green beans stewed with tomatoes. The Grapevine's Greek food is as good as you'll find anywhere around here. Your non-dolmades-eating companion, meanwhile, can have a steak or a crab cake.

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