Little Italy's Della Notte has matured

Restaurant Review

Food *** (3 stars)

Service *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere *** (3 stars)

Some would argue that Della Notte isn't a true Little Italy restaurant. For one thing, you don't have to wander around the neighborhood until you find it. It's sitting right there in plain view on the corner of Eastern Avenue and President Street. The building isn't the usual converted rowhouse with small rooms and a cozy, old-fashioned decor. It's that startling free- standing rotunda with a tree inside. The menu offers much more than Italian comfort food. And -- most unlike a classic Little Italy restaurant -- Della Notte has its own free parking lot in back of the restaurant. (But get there early if you want to find a space.)

Be that as it may, there's no arguing about the fact that Della Notte is a very different restaurant than it was when it opened a decade ago. Over the years, it's grown up.

Poor:]